#酒業大V啟明星計劃# 霞多麗世界上種植最廣泛的白葡萄品種
眾所周知，赤霞珠是世界上最廣泛種植的紅葡萄品種，而霞多麗就是白葡萄酒品種中最廣泛種植的。廣泛種植到過剩的那種，原因是它太受歡迎了！我們來看一下，全世界霞多麗的種植情況。（以下來內來自：THE OXFORD COMPANION TO WINE），對WSET 4感興趣的可以共同交流學習。
相信葡萄酒愛好者，一定是瞭解霞多麗的，也是它的粉絲。它有很多名字，但我覺得“百變女王霞多麗“是最適合它的。原因是它可以釀造成小清新，也可以釀造成果香豐富，口感醇厚的風格。它可以種植在不同的地區而產生不同的風味特徵，比如：種在較熱的地區會有芒果，菠蘿、桃等的香氣哦。
霞多麗
霞多麗
Chardonnay,a name so familiar to wine lovers around the world that many do not realize that it is the name of a white grape variety. In its Burgundian homeland,Chardonnay has for long been the sole vine responsible for all of the finest white burgundy. As such,in a region devoted to geographical labelling,its name was known only to vine-growers. All this changed with the advent of Varietal labelling in the late 20th century,when Chardonnay virtually became a Brand .It is perhaps fitting that a variety so governed by the whims of Fashion should have seen considerable stylistic changes in the sorts of wine sought by its legion of fans. Until the mid 1990s,rich,oaky varietals were the height of modishness but this has been followed by a trend towards leaner ,more appetizing,and definitely less oak-dominated Chardonnays. Chardonnay-mania reached a peak in the late 1980s and it was subsequently（隨後） planted so widely that a glut was assured in the late 1990s,leading to a shortage of Chardonnay in the early 21st century in Australia,for example. There is hardly a country in which is produced that does not at least try to produce commercially acceptable Chardonnay in marketable quantities.
Chardonnay,一個對世界各地的葡萄酒愛好者非常熟悉的名字,但是許多人沒有意識到這是霞多麗是一個白色葡萄品種的名字。勃艮第是霞多麗的家鄉,霞多麗在勃艮第一直佔有著是最優秀的白葡萄的角色。因此,在這個地區它有一個專用的地理標籤,這個標籤適用於葡萄種植者和葡萄園，而非酒莊。在20世紀後期,當霞多麗(Chardonnay)成為品牌的時候,所有這些都發生了的變化都是隨著品種標籤而變化。這可能是一種適合於時尚的奇思妙想的品種,在粉絲們所追求的那種葡萄酒中,這種變化應該會有相當大的風格變化。直到20世紀90年代中期,豐富的,多變橡木桶是極度流行,但現在卻跟隨著另一個趨勢。這種趨勢是精簡,更開胃,更少的橡木桶佔主導的霞多麗。霞多麗的狂熱在20世紀80年代末達到了頂峰,後來被廣泛地種植,以至於在20世紀90年代末導致了供大於求,在澳大利亞。而在21世紀初的澳洲導致了霞多麗(Chardonnay)的短缺。幾乎沒有一個國家生產,它至少沒有嘗試在市場上生產商業可接受的霞多麗。
During a single decade , the 1980S,the world’s total area planted with Chardonnay vines quadrupled,to nearly 100,000 ha/ 247,000 acres—and by the mid 2000s had surpassed 174,000 ha/430,000 acres. By 2010,total global plantings were very nearly 200,000 ha,although the rate of increase had definitely slowed,thanks to what minght be called ‘the Bridget Jones effect’. Chardonna came to be associated with mass market demand (see ABC).So popular is Chardonnay that synonyms are rarely used (although some Austrians in Styria persist with their name Morillon). The wine’s relatively high level of alcohol,which can often taste slightly sweet ,probably played a part in this popularity, as for a time did the obvious appeal of the oak so often used in making Chardonnay.
在20世紀80年代的短短十年間，世界上種植霞多麗葡萄的面積翻了兩番，達到近10萬公頃/ 24.7萬英畝，到本世紀頭十年中期，種植面積已超過17.4萬公頃/43萬英畝。到2010年，全球種植面積已接近20萬公頃，但由於所謂的“布里吉特·瓊斯效應”，種植面積的增長速度明顯放緩。Chardonna開始與大眾市場需求聯繫起來(參見ABC)。霞多麗如此受歡迎以至於同義詞很少被使用(儘管一些奧地利人在Styria堅持使用他們的名字Morillon)。這種葡萄酒的酒精含量相對較高，通常嚐起來有點甜，這可能是它如此受歡迎的原因之一，因為在一段時間內，用於製造霞多麗的橡木明顯具有吸引力。
But it is not just wine drinkers who appreciate the broad,easy-to-appreciate if difficult-to-describe charms of golden Chardonnay. (The Australian wine research institute’s initiative,analyzing the component parts of each major variety’s flavor,found Chardonnay a particularly nebulous target,identifying flavor compounds also found in ,among other things,raspberries,vanilla,tropical fruits,peaches,tomatoes,tobacco,tea,and rose petals).Vine-growers appreciate the ease with which,in a wide range of climates ,they can coax relatively high yields from this vine (whose natural vigour may need to be curbed by either dense planting,low-vigour Rootstocks or canopy management). Wine quality is severely prejudiced,however,at yields above 80hl/ha(4.5tons/acre)and yields of 30hl/ha or lower are usually needed for seriously fine wine. Growers’ only major reservation is that it buds quite early,just after Pinot Noir,which regularly puts the coolest vineyards-those of Chablis,Champagne,and Chile’s Casablanca Valley,for example-at risk from spring Frosts.It can suffer from coulur and occasionally Millerandage and the grapes’ relatively thin skins can encourage rot if there is rain at harvest time,but it can thrive in climates as diverse as those of Chablis in northern France and Australia’s hot riverland. Picking time is critical for,unlike Cabernet Sauvignon,Chardonnay can quickly lose its crucial acidity in the latter stages of ripening. Winemakers love Chardonnay for its reliably high ripeness levels and its malleability.It will happily respond to a far wider range of winemaking techniques than most white varieties. The Mosel or Vouvray winemaking recipe of a long,cool fermentation followed by early bottling can be applied to Chardonnay. Or it can be treated to barrel fermentation and /or ibarrel maturation,some of the highest-quality fruit being able to stand up to new oak. It accommodates each individual winemaker’s policy on the second,softening malolactic conversion and lees stirring without demur.
但欣賞金色霞多麗寬廣、易於欣賞、但難以描述的魅力的，不只是葡萄酒飲用者。澳大利亞葡萄酒研究所(Australian wine research institute)在分析每個主要品種的風味成分後，發現霞多麗是一個特別模糊的目標，並確定了在覆盆子、香草、熱帶水果、桃子、番茄、菸草、茶和玫瑰花瓣等水果中也存在的風味化合物.種植者很欣賞在各種氣候條件下，他們可以輕鬆地從這種藤本植物中獲得相對較高的產量(可能需要通過密集種植、低活力的砧木或林冠管理來抑制其自然活力)。然而，葡萄酒的質量是較為偏頗的，在產量超過80hl/ha(4.5噸/英畝)和產量為30hl/ha或更好的葡萄酒需要更低產量。種植者唯一主要的保留是，它發芽很早，就在黑皮諾之後。黑皮諾經常把最酷的葡萄園——比如夏布利、香檳和智利卡薩布蘭卡山谷的葡萄園——置於春季霜凍的危險之中。它可能會遭受庫魯爾葡萄(coulur)和偶爾的米勒葡萄(M gillerandage)老化，如果在收穫季節下雨，葡萄相對較薄的果皮可能會導致腐爛，但它可以在各種氣候條件下茁壯成長，比如法國北部的夏布利(Chablis)和澳大利亞炎熱的河地。採摘時間至關重要，因為與赤霞珠不同，霞多麗在成熟後期會迅速失去至關重要的酸度。釀酒師喜歡霞多麗，因為它成熟程度高，可塑性強。與大多數白葡萄酒品種相比，它能適應範圍更廣的釀酒技術。莫澤爾(Mosel)或武弗雷(Vouvray)葡萄酒釀造法是一種長時間的冷發酵，然後是早期裝瓶，可用於霞多麗(Chardonnay)。也可以進行桶式發酵和/或桶式熟化，一些高品質的水果能夠經得起新橡木桶的考驗。它適應了每個釀酒師的政策，對第二次的蘋果乳酸轉換和酒泥攪拌無異議。
Chardonnay is also a vital ingredient in most of the world’s best sparkling wine,not just in Champagne,demonstrating its ability to age in bottle even when picked early.And picked late,it has even been known to produce some creditable botrytized wines,notably in the Maconnais,Romania,and New Zealand. Chardonnay blends happily with other less fashionable,cheaper varieties such as Chenin Blanc,Semillon,or Colombard to meet demand or Price Points at the lower end of the market.
霞多麗也是世界上大多數最好的起泡酒的重要成分，不僅在香檳中，較早採摘時而且在瓶中陳釀的能力也得到了證明。而在採摘較晚時，它可以釀造出被認為一些值得稱道的貴腐葡萄酒，尤其是在馬貢內（Maconnais）、羅馬尼亞和新西蘭。霞多麗與其他不那麼時尚、更便宜的品種如白詩南(Chenin Blanc)、賽美蓉(Semillon)或鴿籠白(Colombard)很好地混合在一起，以滿足低端市場的需求或價格點。
But perhaps this is because its own character is,unlike that of the other ultra-fashionable white,Sauvignon Blanc,not too pronounced. Chardonnay from young or over-productive vines can taste almost aqueous.Basic Chardonnay may be vaguely fruity(apples or melons)but,at its best,Chardonnay,like Pinot Noir,is merely a vehicle for the character of the vineyard in which it is grown(see terroir). As in many other ambitions wines fashioned in the image of top white burgundy,its ‘flavour’ has sometimes been that of the oak in which it was matured, or the relics of the winemaking techniques uses (see above).
但或許這是因為它的特點不像另一種超級時尚的白葡萄酒——長相思(Sauvignon Blanc)——那麼明顯。年輕或產量過高的葡萄藤釀製的霞多麗幾乎可以品嚐到含水的味道。基本的霞多麗可能是模糊的水果味(蘋果或瓜類)，但在最好的情況下，霞多麗，就像黑比諾一樣，僅僅是它生長的葡萄園的一種載體(見風土)。與其他許多以勃艮第頂級白葡萄酒為代表的葡萄酒一樣，勃艮第葡萄酒的“味道”有時是成熟時的橡木味，或者是釀酒技術的遺留物(見上文)。
When the vineyard site is right,yields not too high,acid not too low,and winemaking skilled,Chardonnay can produce thrilling,savoury ,dry,full-bodied wines that will continue to improve in bottle for one,two,or,exceptionally,more decades but-unlike Riesling and the best,nobly rotten chenin blanc and Semillon—it is not a variety capable of making whites for very long term,and white burgundies,in particular,have shown a tendency to premature oxidation.
當葡萄園位置是正確的,不太高產,酸不太低,和具有釀酒技術,霞多麗可以產生令人興奮的,可口的,幹型,濃郁的葡萄酒在，裝瓶後繼續在瓶中陳年改善,一年，兩年，甚至是更長的十年，但不像雷司令和最好的白詩南和賽美蓉（Semillon）釀造的貴腐等可以長期陳年的一個品種白勃艮第葡萄酒,特別是,往往會出現過早氧化。
Chardonnay’s origins were long considered obscure,but DNA profiing finally provided the answer to this mystery.Along with a host of other varieties common in north eastern France,it is the progeny of Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc(see Pinot). There is a rare but distinct pink-berried mutation,Chardonnay Rose,as well as a headily perfumed Chardonnay Blanc Musque version,sometimes used in blends. Some of the 34 official French clones of Chardonnay have a similarly grapey perfume,notably 77 and 809,which have been quite widely planted and can add a rather incongruously aromatic note to blends with other clones of the variety. The arguably over enthusiastic application of clonal selection techniques in Burgundy means that growers can now choose from a wide range of Chardonnay clones specially selected for their productivity,particularly 75,78,121,124,125,and 277.
霞多麗的起源一直被認為是不清楚的，但DNA驗證最終為這個謎題提供了答案。它與法國東北部常見的許多其他品種一樣，是黑皮諾(Pinot Noir)和白古埃(Gouais Blanc)的後代。
有一種罕見但獨特的粉紅漿果變種霞多麗(Chardonnay Rose)，還有一種香氣撲鼻的白霞多麗(Chardonnay Blanc)麝香葡萄酒，有時用於混合酒中。在法國34個正式的霞多麗克隆品種中，有一些也有類似的葡萄香水味，值得注意的是77和809，它們被廣泛種植，與其它克隆品種混合後會產生一種不協調的芳香。無性系選擇技術在勃艮第的應用可以說是過於熱情，這意味著種植者現在可以從大量的霞多麗無性系中進行選擇，這些無性系都是根據產量特別挑選的，尤其是75,78,121,124,125和277。
Those seeking quality rather than quantity are more likely to choose 76,95,and 96.Many New World wine regions began their love affair with Chardonnay on clones such as the Mendoza clone,only to find it rekindled by the introduction of better clones from Burgundy,sometimes known as Dijon clones. In California,the old Wente clone is held in high regard. In France the total area planted with Chardonnay—47487ha/117292 acres in 2111-has long been second only in rankings of pale-skinned varieties to the Cognac and Armagnac grape Ugni Blanc. Chardonnay is significant in every single Fench wine region except for Alsace and Bordeaux and is particularly so in greater Burgundy , the Languedoc,and Champagne where Chardonnay,with more than 10,000 ha by 2013,was only just the least-planted of the three most important varieties there.
那些追求質量而不是數量的人更有可能選擇76、95和96。許多新世界葡萄酒產區在克隆酒(如門多薩克隆酒)上對霞多麗產生了濃厚的興趣，但隨著勃艮第(有時也稱第戎克隆酒)更好的克隆酒的引進，霞多麗又重新煥發了生機。在加利福尼亞，老威迪的克隆體受到高度重視。在法國，種植霞多麗的總面積(2111年為47487公頃/117292英畝)一直以來都是僅次於干邑(Cognac)和雅文邑Armagnac)白葡萄(Ugni Blanc)的白葡萄品種。除了阿爾薩斯(Alsace)和波爾多(Bordeaux)，霞多麗在每一個法國產區都很重要，尤其是在大勃艮第(greater Burgundy).朗格多克(Languedoc)和香檳(Champagne)地區，2013年種植面積超過1萬公頃的霞多麗.僅僅是這三個最重要品種中種植最少的品種。
France,once home to sizeable tracts of dozens of local grape varieties,has become increasingly dominated by this paradigm of an international variety. Chablis is quintessential Charddonnay country and plantings totaled heartland,the Cote D’or,Chardonnay plantings had increased to 2.230 ha by 2011 at the expense of Aligote,but were outnumbered three to one of by those of Pinot Noir. In the cote chalonnaise and the maconnais to the south,Chardonnay,with an overall total of 7242 ha by 2011,was twice as common overall as Pinot Noir,Macon Blanc being by far the most common,and affordable ,incarnation of white burgundy.·
法國一度是數十種本地葡萄品種大面積種植區，但現在被日益增長的國際葡萄品種所主導。夏布利是典型的霞多麗產區，也是霞多麗產區的中心地帶。在金丘，到2011年，霞多麗的種植面積增加到了2.230公頃，阿利格特的種植面積減少了一半，但與黑皮諾的種植面積相比，面積減少了三倍。到2011年，夏隆內和馬貢內葡萄酒的總面積達到7242公頃，是黑比諾葡萄酒的兩倍，是法國最常見、最實惠的勃艮第白葡萄酒。
Although the regulations allow Aligote into Beaujolais Blanc and Pinot Blanc into white wines labelled Bourgogne and Macon,most of these less expensive white burgundies are in practice made predominantly from Chardonnay. To the initial horror of the Inao,there has been an increasing trend towards slipping the word Chardonnay on to white burgundy labels to increase their appeal to non-French consumers。In the Languedoc,Chardonnay was first planted to add international appeal to the lemony wines of Limoux. By 2000 there were nearly 9000 ha of Chardonnay in the Languedoc, a total that had grown to nearly 14000 ha by 2011,nearly 6000 of them in the hot herault department ,although this is essentially red wine country.
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儘管法規允許在標有勃艮第(Bourgogne)和馬貢(Macon)的白葡萄酒中加入阿利戈特白葡萄酒(Aligote)和白比諾白葡萄酒(Pinot Blanc)，但這些較便宜的白勃艮第葡萄酒實際上主要由霞多麗(Chardonnay)釀造。讓國家原產地命名管理局最初感驚駭的是，越來越多的人傾向於在白勃艮第(burgundy)酒標上加上霞多麗(Chardonnay)這個詞，以增加它們對非法國消費者的吸引力（appeal to對。。。吸引力）在朗格多克(Languedoc)，霞多麗(Chardonnay)首次被種植，以增加利穆(Limoux)檸檬味葡萄酒的國際吸引力。
到2000年，朗格多克產區有近9000公頃的霞多麗，到2011年，總面積已增至近14000公頃，其中近6000公頃產自熱門的埃羅特產區，儘管這裡本質上是一個紅酒產區。
Chardonnay is grown in virtually all European wine-producing countries,and makes copies of white burgundy of varying qualities,even if much of Spain south of Cataluya(where it plays a part in Cava)is too hot ,and Portugal wisely tends to concentrate on its Indigenous varieties. Even Germany ,Rieslingland,now grows Chardonnay on 1500 ha of vineyard, and it is an important ingredient in the sparkling wine production of England.
幾乎所有的歐洲葡萄酒生產國都種植霞多麗，並且釀造不同品質的勃艮第白葡萄酒，即使加泰羅尼亞以南的西班牙大部分地區(霞多麗在卡瓦酒中起著一定的作用)太熱，而葡萄牙明智地傾向於專注於自己的本土品種。甚至連德國的雷司令產區(Rieslingland)也在1500公頃的葡萄園中種植霞多麗(Chardonnay)，它是英格蘭起泡酒生產的重要原料。
Italy has a long history of Chardonnay cultivation,especially on its subalpine slopes in the north,and the 2010 census identified nearly 20000 ha/50000 acres of Chardonnay throughout the country. For decades , Italians were casual about distinguishing between their Pinot Bianco (Pinot Blanc,also known as Weissburgunder in the Italian Tyrol)
意大利的霞多麗種植歷史悠久，尤其是在北部的亞高山山坡上。2010年的調查發現，該國種植了近2萬公頃/5萬英畝的霞多麗。幾十年來，意大利人對如何區分他們的白皮諾葡萄酒(Pinot Blanc，也稱威斯堡格德葡萄酒，意大利語為Tyrol)都很隨意。(威斯堡格德(Weissburgunder)是皮諾家族的白皮諾(Pinot Blanc)在奧地利的別名) 蒂羅爾州（Tyrol），奧地利西南的州，分為北蒂羅爾及東蒂羅爾兩部分，面積合計12，647平方公里。人口63萬（1991）。首府因斯布魯克。
Alto Adige Chardonnay was the first Italian Chardonnay accorded DOC status, in 1984,although the vine has since been working its magic on producers all over Italy from Puglia to Piemonte and, of course ,Aosta towards the French border. Nowadays much of Italy’s Chardonnay is produced,often without much distinction,in Friuli,Tretino,and,to a more limited extent,Veneto,where much of it is used as ballast for Gaganega.
上阿迪吉(Alto Adige)霞多麗(Chardonnay)是1984年第一個獲得DOC認證的意大利霞多麗(Chardonnay)，儘管從普利亞(Puglia)到皮埃蒙特(Piemonte)，當然，從奧斯塔(Aosta)到法國邊境，這種葡萄一直在意大利各地的釀酒師身上發揮著它的魔力。
今，意大利出產的霞多麗(Chardonnay)大多產自弗留利(Friuli)、特萊蒂諾(Tretino)和威尼託(Veneto)，通常沒有什麼特色。威尼託的大部分霞多麗被用作加加內加(Gaganega)的壓瓶。
Some fine examples are produced in favoured sites in both Friuli and Trentino but a considerable proportion is siphoned off to become spumante,as it is in Lombardy,where it can add finesse to some fine fizz.
弗留裡和特倫蒂諾都有一些很好的例子，但有相當一部分被抽走變成了泡沫，就像倫巴第一樣，在倫巴第，它可以為一些很好的起泡酒增加精細的口感。
Chardonnay gained ground rapidly in Italy in the 1990s,being planted in Tuscan spots where Sangiovese is difficult to ripen. Piemonte,cooler than Tuscany,has,not unsurprisingly,had more overall success with the variety.see under these geographical names for more details of Italian Chardonnays.
上世紀90年代，霞多麗在意大利迅速走紅，被種植在托斯卡納的桑嬌維塞葡萄難以成熟的地方。Piemonte比Tusacany更涼，毫無疑問，它在品種上更成功。在這些地理名稱下面可以看到更多關於意大利霞多麗的詳細信息。
Much less dramatic Chardonnay is also produced in Switzerland,particularly in Geneva,the Valais,and Bundner Herrschaft(see map under Switzerland).
不那麼引人注目的霞多麗也產自瑞士，尤其是日內瓦、瓦萊河和Bundner Herrschaft(見瑞士地圖)。
In Austria,a foreign vine known as Morillon in Styria and Feinburgunder in Vienna and Burgenland was not identified as the modish Chardonnay until the late 1980s.
Austria /ˈɒstriə/ n. 奧地利
Austrialia 澳大利亞
在奧地利，一種名為Morillon的外國葡萄樹在Styria和Feinburgunder的維也納和Burgenland被認為是最時髦的霞多麗(Chardonnay)，直到20世紀80年代末才被確認。
Austria’s Chardonnays include relatively rich,oak-matured versions;lean,aromatic styles modelled on their finest Rieslings;and even sweet ausbruch wines.
奧地利的霞多麗(chardonnay)包括相對豐富、橡木成熟的品種;以最好的雷司令(Rieslings)為藍本的清瘦、芳香的風格;甚至還有甜奧斯布魯赫(ausbruch)葡萄酒。
See Austria.The variety is planted throughout Eastern Europe but,with the noteable exception of some fine,artisanal Slovenian examples,yields and temperatures are often too high for real distinction.
看到奧地利。該品種在東歐各地都有種植，但產量和溫度往往過高，難以真正區分，只有一些手工製作的斯洛文尼亞品種例外。
Few would have believed in 1980,when California had just 18000 acres/7200 ha of Chardonnay,that by 1988 the state’s total plantings would for a while overtake France’s(rapidly increasing ) total. In the 21st century France more than caught up,even though Chardonnay remains California’s most planted variety with a 2012 total of 95000 acres/38461ha.Thanks to the red wine boom,the rate of new plantings reached a peak in the mid 1990s.
在1980年，當加州只有18000英畝/7200公頃的霞多麗時，很少有人相信，到1988年，加州的種植總量會在一段時間內超過法國(迅速增長的)總量。在21世紀，法國遠遠超過了美國，儘管霞多麗仍是加州種植最多的品種，2012年種植面積達95000英畝/38461公頃。由於紅酒的繁榮，新的種植速度在90年代中期達到了頂峰。
See under California for more detail of the state’s evolving but generally rich,heady style of Chardonnay. Chardonnay,now North American for “white wine”,has been embraced with equal fervor throughout the rest of North America,from British Columbia in Canada to Long Island in New York,although it is usually more restrained in character than in California.
下面看霞多麗在加州的長細發展，但大多數是豐富的，熱情的霞多麗。
霞多麗(Chardonnay)如今在北美被稱為“白葡萄酒”，在北美其他地區，從加拿大的不列顛哥倫比亞省(British Columbia)到紐約的長島(Long Island)，都受到了同樣熱烈的歡迎。
equal fervor 相當的熱情
the rest of 其餘的
In 1990,Chardonnay overtook Riesling to become the most planted variety of any hue in Washington State but red wine is now far more important and the 2011 Chardonnay total of 7652 acres maks it only the most planted white grape.Chardonnay is also increasingly well regarded in Oregon(where planting s toalled 950 acres in 2011 and the introduction of Dijon clones has had a profound effect on quality),Virginia ,and Texas. The scale of America’s romance with Chardonnay in general and oak-aged Chardonnay in particular was reflected in the international cooperage business in the 1990s.
1990年，霞多麗取代雷司令成為華盛頓州種植面積最大的品種，但現在紅酒的地位更加重要，2011年霞多麗總佔地7652英畝，是種植面積最大的白葡萄品種。在俄勒岡州(2011年種植面積達到950英畝，第戎無性系的引進對品質產生了深遠的影響)、弗吉尼亞州和德克薩斯州，霞多麗也越來越受到重視。上世紀90年代，美國人對霞多麗(Chardonnay)，尤其是橡木陳釀的霞多麗(Chardonnay)的迷戀，在國際合作行業中得到了廣泛的反映。
Various South American countries have been seeking out cooler spots to imbue their Chardonnay with real verve and concentration. Chile’s Pacific-influenced regions including most notably Casablanca Valley and San Antonio/Leyda and the high-elevation vineyards of Argentina’s Uco Valley are the most obvious examples and their best wines combine the New World virtues of accessibility and value.
許多南美國家一直在尋找更涼爽的地方，讓他們的霞多麗充滿真正的神韻和專注力。受太平洋影響的智利地區，包括最著名的卡薩布蘭卡山谷和聖安東尼奧/萊達，以及阿根廷烏科山谷的高海拔葡萄園是最明顯的例子，他們的最好的葡萄酒結合了新世界的優點和價值。
In Argentina,where the variety has shown impressive finesse,Chardonnay overtook Ugni Blanc,Chenin Blanc,Semilon,and Sauvignonasse in the 1990s to become the country’s second most planted white wine grape after Torrontes.
在阿根廷，霞多麗展現了令人印象深刻的精緻，在20世紀90年代超越了Ugni Blanc、Chenin Blanc、Semilon和Sauvignonasse，成為該國種植面積第二大的白葡萄品種，僅次於Torrontes。
蘇維濃納斯（Sauvignonasse）是一種尤為常見的白葡萄品種，其外文名也稱“Sauvignon Vert”。該品種與更為顯赫的長相思（Sauvignon Blanc）完全不同，但在一些地方，這兩種葡萄還是經常被人混為一談。總的來說，該品種釀製的葡萄酒爽脆感和芳香程度都不如長相思，並且它還容易染上霜黴病（Downy Mildew）和腐爛。
相關的DNA檢測（DNA Profiling）證實了加力（Galet）的觀點，即蘇維濃納斯與弗留利托凱（Tocal Friulano）是同一品種。在智利，蘇維濃納斯的種植也十分廣泛，在這裡，它經常被簡單地稱為“Sauvignon”。2005年，據相關統計顯示，在智利被稱為蘇維濃納斯的葡萄中，有7,400公頃是長相思，真正的蘇維濃納斯葡萄只有200公頃。加力還指出在加利福尼亞州被稱為“Sauvignon Vert”的葡萄實際上是波爾多的密斯卡岱（Muscadelle）。
Total Argentine plantings were more than 6470 ha by 2011.Chile has even more,10970 ha,and Chardonnay was the country’s most planted white wine grape(and third overall)for the first decade of this century but Sauvignon Blanc has once more taken the lead.
到2011年，阿根廷的總種植面積超過6470公頃。智利的種植面積更大，為10970公頃。在本世紀頭十年，霞多麗是智利種植面積最大的白葡萄品種(種植面積位居第三)，但白蘇維翁(Sauvignon Blanc)再次佔據了領先地位。
Has once more 再次
The Australian wine industry’s all-importtant export trade was for long centred on its particularly user-friendly and frequently adapted style of Chardonnay.Rich fruit flavours,often disciplined by added acid and flavoured by oak chips,have been available at carefully judge price points.
長期以來，澳大利亞葡萄酒行業的主要出口貿易都集中在對消費者特別友好、經常被調整的霞多麗風格上。豐富的水果味道，通常由添加的酸和口味的橡木片，已在仔細判斷價格點。
Such was the strength of demand for Australian Chardonnay in the late 1980s that the area of Chardonnay vines increased more than fivefold during the decade so that in 1990,Chardonnay,with its 4300ha/10600 acres,became Australia’s most planted white grape variety(although 13000 ha were too young to bear fruit).
就是這樣的強度要求澳大利亞霞多麗在1980年代後期,該地區的霞多麗葡萄在十年間增長了5倍多,1990年,霞多麗,擁有4300公頃/ 10600畝,成為澳大利亞最種植白葡萄品種(儘管13000公頃過於年輕,結出果實)。
· Fivefold 英 /ˈfaɪvfəʊld/ adv. 五倍地；五重地
Plantings peaked in 2007 with more than 32000 ha but reaction to glut left total Chardonnay plantings at 25491ha in 2012,very slighty less than those of Cabernet Sauvignon,Australia’s second most popular variety after Shiraz.
種植面積在2007年達到頂峰，超過32000公頃，但由於供過於求，霞多麗在2012年的總種植面積為25491公頃，遠遠低於赤霞珠(Cabernet Sauvignon)的種植面積。赤霞珠是澳大利亞第二受歡迎的品種，僅次於設拉子(Shiraz)。
Reaction n. 反應，感應；反動，復古；反作用
Glut n. （商品）供過於求；大量
The style of typical Australian Chardonnay changed more rapidly than any other nation’s with steeliness ,almost austerity,now seen as virtues.Nevertheless, the average life expectancy of typical Australian(and most other New World)Chardonnay is short,but glorious exceptions abound in cooler spots such as Adelaide Hills,Victoria,and Tasmania,and can give fine white burgundy a run for its money.
典型的澳大利亞霞多麗葡萄酒的風格變化得比其他任何國家都要快，它的冷峻，幾乎可以說是簡樸，現在被視為美德。儘管如此，典型的澳大利亞人(以及大多數其他新大陸人)的霞多麗平均壽命都很短，但在阿德萊德山、維多利亞和塔斯馬尼亞等較冷的地方卻有很多令人意外的例外，而且勃艮第白葡萄酒也很受歡迎。
· Austerity 英 /ɒˈsterəti; ɔːˈsterəti/ n. 緊縮；樸素；苦行；嚴厲
· Steeliness /ˈstiːlinəs/ n. 鋼製；冷酷；頑固
· Virtues /'vɝtʃʊ/ n. 優點，貞操；美德
· Expectancy 英 /ɪkˈspektənsi/ n. 期望，期待
· Glorious 英 /ˈɡlɔːriəs/ adj. 光榮的；輝煌的；極好的
Give a run for its money (讓。。。物有所值)
Can give fine white burgundy a run for its money. 能讓好的勃艮第白葡萄灑物有所值 。
New Zealand’s love affair with Chardonnay was relatively short.Only in the last decade of the 20th century did Chardonnay plantings outnumber those of the Sauvgnon Blanc that has now been anointed queen of Kiwi vines.
新西蘭人對霞多麗的喜愛相對較短。直到20世紀的最後十年，霞多麗的種植面積才超過了長相思(Sauvgnon Blanc)的種植面積。長相思現已被譽為新西蘭葡萄樹女王。
· Outnumber 英 /ˌaʊtˈnʌmbə(r)/ vt. 數目超過；比…多
· Anointed 官方指定，選定的
· Queen of Kiwi vines 新西蘭葡萄酒女王
· Kiwi 英 /ˈkiːwi/ n. 獼猴桃；幾維（一種新西蘭產的無翼鳥）；新西蘭人
By 2012 total plantings of Chardonnay,just over 3000ha,had fallen to less than one-sixth those of Sauvignon Blanc,even though the naturally high acidity of New Zealand wines suits Chardonnay so well.
到2012年，種植面積剛剛超過3000公頃的霞多麗已經減少到不到白蘇維翁(Sauvignon Blanc)的六分之一，儘管新西蘭葡萄酒自然的高酸度非常適合霞多麗。
Chardonnay has had a chequered history in South Africa.Planting material in the late 1970s and early 1980S was frequently smuggled rather than submitted for quarantine,and at one time significant quantities of auxerrois contaminated the authenticity of “chardonnay”vineyards.
霞多麗在南非有著曲折的歷史。在20世紀70年代末和80年代初，種植材料經常被走私而不是提交檢疫，有一段時間大量的歐塞爾葡萄酒汙染了“霞多麗葡萄園”的真品。
· Chequered 英 /ˈtʃekəd/ adj. 有方格的；多變的 Smuggled 英 /ˈsmʌɡl/ vt. 走私；偷運
· Quarantine /ˈkwɒrəntiːn/ n. 檢疫隔離期；隔離；檢疫；檢疫區，隔離區
· Quantities /k'wɒntɪtɪz/ n. 數量，工程量；音符長度（quantity的複數）
Auxerrois 歐塞瓦
· Contaminated /kən'tæməneɪtɪd/ adj. 受汙染的，弄髒的 v. 汙染；玷汙，毒害
· Authenticity /ˌɔːθenˈtɪsəti/ n. 真實性，確實性；可靠性
· For a while Chardonnay was the country’s third most planted white wine grape,albeit along way behind Chenin Blanc and Colombard,but in 2006 Sauvignon Blanc,as in New Zealand,overtook Chardonnay whose plantings in 2012 were under 8000 ha.
· 有一段時間，霞多麗是該國種植面積第三大的白葡萄品種，儘管遠遠落後於白詩南(Chenin Blanc)和鴿籠白(Colombard)，但在2006年，與新西蘭一樣，白蘇維翁(Sauvignon Blanc)的種植面積超過了霞多麗，後者在2012年的種植面積不到8000公頃。
Albeit /ˌɔːlˈbiːɪt/ conj. 雖然，儘管
Although Chardonnay can thrive in relatively hot climate(such as Australia’s irrigation zones),it has to be picked before acids plummet (sometimes before the grapes have developed much real character,although this is usually caused by excessively high yields)and it does require relatively sophisticated techniques,including temperature control,in the cellar.
雖然霞多麗能在相對炎熱的氣候下茁壯成長(比如澳大利亞的灌溉區)，但它必須在酸度下降之前採摘(有時是在葡萄發育出真正的品質之前，儘管這通常是由於產量過高造成的)，而且它確實需要相對複雜的技術，包括地窖裡的溫度控制。
This is why it is not especially well suited to hot Mediterranean wine regions and well-balanced Chardonnays with real interest from the likes of Greece,Israel,and the Lebanon tend to be exceptions
這就是為什麼它不是特別適合炎熱的地中海葡萄酒產區，以及來自希臘、以色列和黎巴嫩等國的真正感興趣的霞多麗(chardonnay)卻往往是例外
