外國人怎麼評論上海的生活
What is it like to live in Shanghai?
在上海生活是什麼感覺？
QUORA網站讀者評論：
Ervis Micukaj, lives in Shanghai (2013-present)
I have been living in Shanghai since September 2013 and below I will share my positive and not so great experiences here from a foreign perspective.
今年是我在上海的第5個年頭了，如果你對在上海生活的利弊有些糾結，我可以和你分享一些體驗。我的這些觀點都是來自外國人的視角。
1.Ease of living: Shanghai is great! You can get everywhere easily, shops are open 24 hours and the shopping malls have long hours, a lot of people speak English compared to the rest of the country, you can buy things online, you can go everywhere.
2.Superb transportation: metro, taxi, buses, shared bikes, didi or Uber (the first owns the second in China), e-bikes (you need to own one), 2 airports, 5 train stations (the first 5 that come to my mind are Central station, HongQiao, SongJiang, South, West), illegal black cars (if you are brave or desperate or no alternative available). I feel Shanghai has one of the best transportation systems in the world and it is great to move around.
3.Smartphones: you can do everything (almost) with your smartphone in Shanghai. Just download WeChat (Tencent) and Alipay (Alibaba), connect them to your bank cards and start enjoying it. You can pay everywhere with them, you can order taxis, read the most recent news, pay the bills, order taxis/vans/buses, order food and get delivered it everywhere you want, buy holiday trips, etc. There are so many things available you can do by just accessing these 2 apps and all their affiliates.
1.生活便利度：上海太棒了!你可以很容易地到達城市的任一角落，商店24小時營業，購物中心營業時間很長，與中國其他城市相比這裡說英語的人很多，你可以網上購物，可以去任何地方。
2.一流的交通：地鐵、出租車、公共汽車、共享單車、滴滴或優步（在中國滴滴收購了優步）、電動自行車（你一定要買一輛）、2個機場、5個火車站（我腦中馬上跳出的是中央車站、虹橋站、松江站、南站、西站）、黑車（如果你夠大膽、實在沒辦法或沒有其他交通方式）。我覺得上海的交通系統是世界上最好的交通系統之一，出行非常便利。
3.智能手機：在上海，你幾乎可以用智能手機完成所有事情。只要下載微信(騰訊)和支付寶(阿里巴巴)，把它們綁定到你的銀行卡上，就可以開始享受了。你在任何地方都可以用他們來支付，你可以叫車，瀏覽最新時事，支付賬單，預訂出租車/貨車/公共汽車，訂外賣，送餐到指定的任何地址，預訂假日旅行等等。只要訪問這兩個應用程序和關聯程序，你可以完成的事實在太多了。
4.Food: the different provinces of China, Italian, French, Japanese, Korean, Singaporean, American, English, Russian, Spanish, Argentinian, Thai, Indonesian, Malay, etc. Salty, sweet, sour, spicy, barbecue, soups, fried, seasoned, etc. The food options are so different and varied that you can get lost and the prices are overwhelming. You can find everything based on how much you want to pay. 3 Michelin stars to the street food. You pick your choice.
5.Coffee culture: coffee is growing by leaps and bounds in Shanghai. Before it was only the big chains (Starbucks, Costa, Pacific, Dunkin and so on), but now there are plenty of small and private coffee shops that offer great coffee and awesome experiences. They are located everywhere in Shanghai (from the top shopping malls, to the small alleys typical of Shanghai). The prices are somewhat pricey (5/7 Euro/USD for a coffee is weird for me as an Italian), but the variety and the quality can make up a bit for the price you pay. Or you can skip the pricey ones and go to the small shops.
4.美食：中國各省、意大利、法國、日本、韓國、新加坡、美國、英語、西班牙、阿根廷、泰國、印尼、馬來西亞等。鹹的、甜的、酸的、辣的、燒的烤的、靚湯、油炸等。美食品類數不勝數，各有特色，價格優惠，足以讓你挑花眼。根據你的預算，你可以找到各式各樣的美食。從米其林三星到路邊攤。你說了算。
5.咖啡文化：上海的咖啡市場正在飛速發展。以前這裡只有大型連鎖店(星巴克，Costa, Pacific, Dunkin等)，但現在也出現了很多私人的咖啡小店，店裡的咖啡和體驗都很棒。這種小店在上海隨處可見(從頂級的購物中心到典型的上海弄堂)。價格有點貴(一杯咖啡5至7歐元或美元，對我這個意大利人來說有點離譜)，但是咖啡的種類和質量算得上物有所值。當然你也可以不選這種價格高的咖啡店，去小店吧。
6.English: a lot of foreigners come to Shanghai because it is easier to communicate with the locals and there are also a lot of international businesses. So it has become a positive circle for the internationals and the Chinese alike. But get out of the main areas (HuaiHai rd, Nanjing W/E rd, LJZ, University areas, some areas around the international schools and the big companies or tech parks) and you will feel a lot like being outside of Shanghai because no one speaks English there. Some districts have only Chinese so if you want to improve your Mandarin / Shanghainese skills (and save a lot of money) consider living in certain suburbs (Minhang and SongJiang have plenty of cheap estates).
7.Clean and safe: Shanghai is very safe (police is everywhere and cameras as well) and there a lot of cleaners who will sweep the city over and over.
6.英語：很多外國人到上海來是因為和上海當地人交流比較方便，而且上海還有很多國際大型企業。因此，它已經成為對外國人-其實對中國人也一樣-來說十分積極的環境。但在中心城區以外(淮海路、南京西路、陸家嘴、大學城、一些國際學校和大公司或科技園附近)，你會覺得不像生活在上海，因為那裡沒有人會說英語。有些地方只有中國人，所以如果你想提高你的普通話/上海話水平(同時還能儘可能省錢)，可以考慮住到某些郊區(閔行和松江有很多便宜的房子)。
7.乾淨、安全：上海非常安全(到處都有警察和攝像頭)，許多清潔工會一遍又一遍地打掃這個城市。
8.Skyscrapers: this is a personal favorite, because you can go to almost all of them and the view can be awesome (when there is no smog).
9.Change! Shanghai is changing all the time, you will never know what would come into your life when you wake up the next day, maybe a new cellphone app, maybe a new convenient service, even a new construction, metro... (During my first 12 months I stayed in the same apartment, but the street to the closest metro stop changed 3/4 of the shops). If a shop does not work, within 6 months it will be scrapped and a new entrant will be ready to propose something different.
10.Mix. Shanghai is a mix. No doubt, you will see a lot of high-rise building there, but meanwhile you still can find many historical buildings, telling the history of shanghai and showing you the authentic of Shanghai
8.摩天大樓：這是我個人最喜歡的，因為你可以去到幾乎所有的摩天大樓，從樓上看，景觀非常棒(沒有霧霾的時候)。
9.改變！上海一直在變化，你永遠都不知道第二天醒來後，你的生活中會出現什麼，也許是某個新的手機應用，也許是一項新的便利服務，甚至是一棟新的建築，地鐵……(在我抵達上海後的第一年，我一直住在同一套公寓裡，但通往地鐵站的最近的街道上，3/4的商店都換了一遍)。如果一家店不賺錢，6個月內就會淘汰，就有新的老闆躍躍欲試賣新的東西。
10.融匯。上海是一個融匯體。毫無疑問，你可以在上海看到很多高層建築，但與此同時你仍然可以找到許多歷史建築，講述著上海的歷史，向你展示上海的真實。
Disadvantages:
1.Smog: a lot during the winter. Hopefully there will be more and more big international events to increase the clean days.
2.Queue: get ready for some people to jump the queue
3.Food safety: you can never be safe about food in China, because some bad apples will try to circumvent the rules to make more money (like in every country, but here things get amplified way more due to the large amount of people) (things are improving lately)
4.Smoking: smoking everywhere. March 2017 should be a turning point with more restrictive rules / laws, but as usual it is all about the application and enforcement of them. Hopefully they will do.
1.Update: the change was big at the beginning of March, but it has slowly worn out and now you can still find people smoking in places where they should not. Way better than 2 months ago, but way to go.
缺點:
1.霧霾：冬天經常會霧霾。希望能舉辦越來越多的大型國際活動，增加晴朗天數。
2.排隊：做好心理準備，有些人會插隊
3.食品安全：在中國，你永遠不能對食品安全掉以輕心
4.吸菸：吸菸現象隨處可見。2017年3月應該是一個轉折點，出臺了更多限制性的法規/法律，但還要看實際推行和執行力度。希望他們能做到。
更新：這個變化在三月初是巨大的，但是現在已經慢慢的消失了，你仍然可以發現人們在不該吸菸的地方吸菸。比兩個月前好多了，但還有很長的路要走。
5.Rising cost of real estate: it is abused by some companies and it pushes all the other prices up. They are trying to cool the effects a bit with some rules (some months ago locals were divorcing to buy more houses for example), but still not enough.
1.Fun article I read this month: one real estate agent had married and divorced 3 times to help WaiDiRen to get a house in Shanghai (WaiDiRen are Chinese that do not have a local residence permit for Shanghai; you need 5 years to apply for it). If you have the local license (Hukou?) you can buy a house easily (Shanghainese and Chinese who have lived for at least 5 years in Shanghai can have it). If you do not have it, look for these agents. If they are not already in jail for it.
5.不斷上漲的住房成本：一些企業搗亂，推高房價。他們試圖通過一些條規來降低影響(比如幾個月前，當地人就忙著辦離婚來購買多套房產)，但仍然不夠。
這個月我讀到一篇有趣的文章:一個房地產中介為了幫助外地人在上海買房，結了三次婚又離婚(外地人是中國人，沒有上海本地戶口;你需要5年的時間來申請。如果你有當地戶口，你可以很容易地買到房子(在上海居住至少5年的上海人和中國人可以買到)。如果你沒有，就去找這些代理。如果他們還沒有因此入獄的話。
6.Manners: 3 years ago it was bad (and some friends tell me it was even worse before) and now it is improving. Some locals will spit, burp, cut their nails everywhere. Slow change here.
7.Taxi drivers: a lot of times they can be scary due to they way they drive and it is hard to get them to stop for you in certain hours of the day Why?
1.They might get more incentives by picking callers via phone or via app for example. It is not rare to have him/her skipping you while you are waving at them because they have a “better” request)
2.Some taxi drivers don't stop because they are close to the end of their shift. So drivers late for shifting will be fined (from Lin Lyu)
3.Some drivers do not want (too far from recurring customers) or cannot go to certain parts of the city (according to their licenses).
8.Pedestrian crossing: It is not very safe because most of the drivers will not stop and wait for you to pass, but things are changing slowly. Read: more fines are being given to drivers who do not respect this rule.
6.禮儀：三年前很糟糕(一些朋友告訴我以前更糟)，現在正在慢慢改善。一些當地人會隨地吐痰、打嗝、剪指甲。一切都在慢慢變化。
7.出租車司機：因為他們開車的方式，很多時候都讓人覺得可怕。每天某個時段，很難攔到出租車載客，這是為什麼?
1)他們可能會通過電話或app等方式篩選打電話的乘客，以便獲得更高的激勵金。當你向他/她揮手示意時，他/她不會理睬，因為他們有“更好”的訂單，這種情況並不罕見。
2)有些出租車司機在快下班的時候不會停車載客。司機遲到會被罰款(Lin Lyu提供的訊息)
3)有些司機不想(離返程乘客太遠)或者不能(根據他們的駕照)開往城市的某些地方。
8.人行橫道：不太安全，因為大多數司機不會停車等著你通過，但這種情況正在慢慢改變。閱讀：將對不遵守這條法規的司機處以更多罰款。
Any comment is welcome.
edit: thanks to Joyce Chen for points 9 and 10 in the positive group and to Lin Lyu for the taxi drivers feedback.
我很歡迎大家來評論。
Andrew Todd Natenshon, lives in Shanghai
A bit of background, I lived in Shanghai for 2 years, while setting up a research facility there. My wife is originally from China and we had twin boys who were born in a Shanghai hospital. So my perspective is as an expat with pretty strong local connections to China via family and work.
Shanghai was a wonderful and frustrating place to live. I feel about 80% of the living experience aside from the language differences, was like living in a major western city (have lived in New York, Boston and SF, New York was the closest match for Shanghai but not a perfect correlate).
10% was different in a wonderful way, the Chinese food, particularly the street food was amazing, there was a vibrancy to the city, a sense of growth and potential that was wonderful to take part of. The Subway system was fantastic, clean and very well, run even if it did get crowded (again not worse than NYC subway at rush hours, and much cleaner). You could get handy men to do things for very cheap.
先說點背景，我在上海生活了兩年，在那裡創建了一個研究機構。我妻子是中國人，我們有一對雙胞胎兒子，他們出生在上海的醫院。我作為一名外籍人士，因為家庭和工作的關係，跟中國有著很深切的關係，以下就是我的觀點。
上海是一個既精彩美妙也令人沮喪的地方。我覺得除了語言差異外，80%的生活體驗就像生活在西方大城市(我曾在紐約、波士頓和舊金山生活過，紐約與上海最為接近)。
10%的差異存在於非常美妙的地方，中國菜，尤其是街頭小吃非常美味，城市充滿了活力，讓人感受到成長和潛力，能身處其中是非常美妙的體會。地鐵系統非常棒，乾淨，有序，雖然確實很擁擠(一樣，並不比紐約高峰時段的地鐵差，而且還乾淨得多)。你只要花很少的錢就能請到巧手的人來幹活。
10% was different in a frustrating way, it took me ages to find out how to buy a screwdriver (no Home Depots, B&Q was not a perfect match), Chinese Bureaucracy particularly around banking and residency was a pain to deal with (and I had a lot of corporate help)
Overall the people I worked with were wonderful, the scientists smart and passionate, with a great can do attitude. The food was great for Chinese food, and pretty good range of other options though I missed cuisine in the US. I was happy to live there, but was also happy to come home.
還有10%的差異令人十分沮喪，我花了很久才搞清楚怎麼購買螺絲刀(沒有家得寶，百安居也不太一樣)，中國的機構，尤其是銀行和居住有關的機構，很難打交道(我從公司處獲得了很多幫助)
總的來說，和我一起工作的同事都很出色，科學家們聰明熱情，有一股勇往無前的勁兒。中國菜特別好吃，可選的菜色非常多，但我想念美國的美食。住在上海挺開心的，但我也很高興能回家。
Chris Robinson, B Econs, MBA Marketing Economics & Statistics & Psychology, Monash University
I lived in Shanghai for three years, straight after 30 years in Hong Kong. I was expecting the worse by comparison. But it was everything others have listed. So I will just focus on a few negative that seem to have been ignored.
The first of these is that there is a huge underclass in Shanghai made up of migrant workers. Contact with them soon reveals a less than civil or sophisticated element. Try a metro trip mid week versus a weekend when these people have a day off. All the pleasantries and politeness disappears.
Second the current airports and all related travel is nightmareish. Long queues, bureaucratic processes, every flight delayed. I never once took a flight that left or arrived on time. Try flying around a national holiday. What a bun fight. By comparison the train system is impeccable.
我在上海生活了三年，在香港住了30年。我原以為兩者對比起來差距會更大。但其他人已經把所有方面都列出來了。所以我就寫寫被忽視的負面因素吧。
首先，上海有一個農民工組成的龐大的底層階級。與他們接觸，很快就能覺察到不那麼文明或體面的方面。若你在工作日期間，而非這些人休一天假的週末去搭乘地鐵，你會發現所有的愉悅和禮貌都遁形了。
其次，目前的機場和相關出行都像是噩夢一般。長長的排隊，官僚程序，每趟航班都會晚點。我從來沒有坐過準時起飛或準時抵達的航班。你儘管試試在全國性假期搭飛機。吵鬧死了。相比之下，鐵路系統無可挑剔。
The metro is amazing but wait until you get on at peak times. Be prepared to almost suffocate as people plough into the train and all those manners disappear.
Landlord are assholes. Contracts can often be worthless.
Sometimes change can be a real pain. In the space of three years a huge supermarket disappeared and 7 great local restaurants either dissapeared or turned into mobile phone, shoe shops or nail saloons. Local areas just lose their identity overnight.
Oh imported wine is bloody expensive and local wine is complete crap.
地鐵非常棒，但等你在高峰期擠上車再說。當人們擠進車廂時，你得做好幾乎窒息的準備，所有禮貌禮儀都靠邊站吧。
房東都是混蛋。租房合同簡直一文不值。
有時候改變真的很讓人痛苦。在三年的時間跨度裡，一個大型超市銷聲匿跡，7家本地大型飯店要麼消失了，要麼就是變成了手機、鞋店或美甲沙龍。這個區域一夜之間就失去了他們的特色。
哦，進口葡萄酒貴得要命，可沒辦法，國產葡萄酒太垃圾了。
