Wine Legend: Trimbach, Clos Ste-Hune 1990
名酒傳——婷芭克世家聖翰園乾白1990
A wine legend because…
Single-vineyard wines, other than those from grand cru sites, are not that common in Alsace, and over the decades Clos Ste-Hune has won a reputation as the finest of them all. It is only produced in good vintages; thus in 1980 and 1984 no Clos Ste-Hune was bottled. 1990, by contrast, is recognised as one of the greatest years in Alsace. The reputation of the Clos is not restricted to Alsace; many critics and sommeliers regard it as one of the greatest white wines in the world.
緣起……
單一葡萄園葡萄酒，除了那些來自特級園的，在阿爾薩斯並不常見，幾十年來聖翰園葡萄酒贏得了其中最高的聲譽。 它只選用優秀的年份生產; 因此在1980年和1984年就沒有瓶裝。 相反，1990年被公認為阿爾薩斯最傑出的年份之一。 聖翰園的聲譽並不侷限於阿爾薩斯; 許多評論家和侍酒師都認為它是世界上最好的白葡萄酒之一。
Looking back
The Trimbachs have been producing wine in Alsace since the early 17th century, and have owned the Clos for more than two centuries, although the first vintage to be released commercially was the 1919. In 1990 the winemaker would have been Pierre Trimbach and this was his first vintage after taking over from his father Bernard.
回顧
婷芭克世家自17世紀初開始在阿爾薩斯生產葡萄酒，並擁有葡萄園超過兩個多世紀，儘管第一批商業發佈的葡萄酒是在1919年。1990年份的釀酒師是皮埃爾·婷芭克，這是他 從父親伯納德手裡接管葡萄園的第一個年份。
The vintage
Like its predecessor 1989, 1990 was an outstanding vintage in Alsace, although the crop was reduced by about 25% after poor weather at flowering. But the aromatic varieties were more troubled by these problems than Riesling. The winter was mild and dry, so in spring the vines experienced a growth spurt that was brought to a halt by miserable weather in June, just before flowering. Thereafter the growing season was fine and the harvest took place in early October in perfect conditions; sugar levels were abnormally high.
年份
像它的前身1989年份一樣，阿爾薩斯的1990年份在是一個非常出色的年份，儘管花期糟糕的天氣，導致葡萄減收了大約25％。 但芳香品種系列比雷司令更容易受到這些問題的困擾。 冬季溫和而乾燥，所以春季葡萄樹生長迅速，但在6月開花前的可怕天氣裡又中止了。隨後的生長季天氣很好，收穫在10月初在完美的氣候條件下進行; 糖度出奇地高。
The terroir
The Clos is a 1.67-hectare parcel within the 26ha Rosacker Grand Cru, but the Trimbachs (like the firms of Hugel and Beyer) have always been firmly opposed to the grand cru system in Alsace. Since the existing grands crus have been generously defined, they feel it would be a disservice to this great wine to place it on the same level as other Rieslings from this site. There is no doubt that Clos Ste-Hune is easily the finest wine to be produced from Rosacker, and the Trimbachs wish to protect that renown. The site faces southeast on a gentle slope, and has rather heavy marl and clay soils over a limestone subsoil. The average age of the vines is about 50 years. Yields are generally about 50 hectolitres per hectare – low but not especially so, given that Riesling can reach a potential alcohol level of 13.5% at such a yield. It is the small size of the Clos that ensures production rarely exceeds 8,000 bottles in any year, a rarity factor that, in addition to its quality, justifies a very high price. Despite this very limited production, the Trimbachs have occasionally, as in 1989, produced an even scarcer Vendange Tardive (late harvest) from the Clos.
風土
佔地1.67公頃的聖翰園是26公頃的Rosacker特級園一部分，但婷芭克世家（像雨果酒莊和貝耶酒莊一樣）一直堅決反對阿爾薩斯的特級園分級系統。由於現有的特級園命名被濫用，他們認為把這款佳釀跟本地區其他雷司令酒並列是對它的傷害。毫無疑問，聖翰園是Rosacker生產的最好的葡萄酒，而婷芭克世家希望維護它的聲譽。葡萄園在一個面向東南的平緩斜坡上，在石灰石底土上是厚重的泥灰土和黏土。葡萄藤的平均年齡大約是50年。每公頃產量通常約為5000升， 產量不高但也不是特別低，雷司令在這種產量下可達到13.5％的潛在酒精含量。這是葡萄園的小地塊，確保每年產量很少超過8,000瓶，其稀缺性加上上乘質量，導致其價格昂貴。儘管產量非常有限，但婷芭克世家有時還會像1989年一樣，生產更罕見的晚收品種。
The wine
The Trimbachs have long produced Rieslings that are among the most severe and uncompromising from Alsace. These include not only Clos Ste-Hune but the magnificent Cuvée Frédéric Emile as well. They have never followed, indeed have always opposed, the trend to leave some residual sugar in the wine. (That said, the 1990 did have 5.6 grams of residual sugar, so rich was the fruit, but there is no perceptible sweetness.) To preserve the acidity so key for the longevity of their wines, the Rieslings do not go through malolactic fermentation. Although fermented in stainless steel, the wine is aged for about six months in large old casks. It is bottled relatively young, but then spends five years in the Trimbach cellars before release. Clos Ste-Hune does not seek to charm, and the initial impression given by a young vintage is often one of ruthless austerity. It’s a wine that demands bottle age and should not be broached until it is at least seven years old.
葡萄酒
婷芭克世家長期生產雷司令，是阿爾薩斯最嚴苛和不將就的品種。 它們不但包括聖翰園乾白，還包括顯赫的弗雷德裡克·埃米爾特釀。 他們從不盲從，一直反對在葡萄酒中留下一些殘糖的傾向（儘管如此，1990年份確實有5.6克殘糖，所以果實豐富，但沒有明顯的甜味）。為了保持葡萄酒酸度這一決定葡萄酒壽命的關鍵，雷司令不會經過蘋果乳酸發酵。 儘管採用不鏽鋼發酵，但這種葡萄酒是在大型舊酒桶中陳年約六個月。 它瓶裝時相對年輕，但在發佈之前會在婷芭克世家酒窖中陳釀五年的時間。聖翰園並不追求噱頭，年輕的年份酒給人的最初印象往往是粗糲的緊縮。 這是一款需要瓶中陳年的酒，至少要熟化七年才能開瓶。
How does it taste?
Reserved, nutty apricot and apple nose. Very rich and full-bodied on the palate, supple yet nutty and mineral, a touch alcoholic but has splendid persistence.
味道如何？
保留有堅果、杏和蘋果的氣息。 口感豐富而濃郁，酒體豐滿，柔順，有堅果和礦物質味道，少許酒精味，但具有極好的持久性。
The facts
Bottles produced 8,300
Composition 100% Riesling
Yield 59 hl/ha
Alcohol 14.2%
Release price N/A
Price today £395 x1 bottle Handford Wines (UK)
數據
瓶裝量：8,300
成分：100％雷司令
產量：59 hl /公頃
酒精度：14.2％
發行價：未知
現價：每瓶395英鎊
譯自——
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