冈仁波齐峰有史以来唯一一份来自知名登山家的攀登结论和路线参考图(珍贵史料)

英国登山家Colonel R. C. Wilson在1926年对冈仁波齐峰进行了认真的攀登侦察后,得出以下结论:

Wilson drew the folloWING conclusions from his day's

reconnaissance:

Should fate again take me to Torcheri [sic] with a couple of days

to spare, I should make for the ridge HF, moving either round the

foot of D or via Kyangda and over ridge FD. I should expect to

get on the ridge HF about point F and to have an easy passage to

the foot ofthe final ascent. A reasonably cornfortable camp could

be made here and the carriers sent down again to the foot of F for

the night.

Next day the carriers could return to H and remove camp to the

foot of F, whilst the climbers went on to the top and back. As

regards altitudes, Torchen is probably about I 5, 500 feet, point H

about 20,000 and the summit is 22,028.

The photograph shows the final slope to be reasonable. though

the snow might be found powdery and treacherous.

Should the route suggested above prove impracticable, an

alternative line to point H would be to leave C and the ridge HB

on one's right and to trust to finding a way up on to H from near

the foot of the mountain where the small glacier falls into the

valley and the niche with the images has been made.

In this EVENT one would have to be content with a light camp, as

the climb to H might prove too much for laden carriers.

Finally, there remains a third possible route: to get on up the long

N. ridge somewhere near the Dolma Pass.

(Wilson, Ibid .)

冈仁波齐峰有史以来唯一一份来自知名登山家的攀登结论和路线参考图(珍贵史料)

为了帮助大家理解路线图,我为大家在GE里把H点给标上了,其它点可以对照获得:

冈仁波齐峰有史以来唯一一份来自知名登山家的攀登结论和路线参考图(珍贵史料)

关于攀登冈仁波齐峰,梅斯内尔说过 If we conquer this mountain, then we conquer something in people's souls. I would suggest they go and climb something a little harder. kailas is not so high and not so hard

这段话里,梅斯内尔在最后一部分提到冈仁波齐峰不高也不难,海拔6000多米的确不算高,不难这种说法就很睁着眼说瞎话了, 早在1926年,英国登山家Hugh Ruttledge已经研究过冈仁波齐峰的北壁, 他估算冈仁波齐峰的北壁有 6,000 英寸 (1,800 米) 高,并认为它是"utterly unclimbable",别看梅斯内尔已经功成名就,也许这块北壁就足以让他折戟沉沙了,任何一座山峰都不应该被轻视,何况这是Kailas

梅斯内尔自从获得登山皇帝的称号后,非常喜欢对什么事情都发表一通自己的看法,其中有很多说法都是不切实际的,与事实相去甚远

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