Karl Lagerfeld Dies; A High Priest Of High Fashion
时尚教主卡尔拉格斐逝世
German designer Karl Lagerfeld died in Paris, according to fashion house LVMH, owner of Fendi. He is seen here at the end of Chanel's 2019 women's ready-to-wear show in Paris, where a beach was created to show off Lagerfeld's collection.
Stephane Mahe/Reuters
据芬迪[Fendi]品牌所属的高端时尚集团路易威登消息，德国设计师卡尔拉格斐于巴黎逝世。香奈儿2019年拉格斐女性高级成衣系列在巴黎展出。展台被搭建成一个海滩，闭幕时卡尔露面。
fashion house
N an establishment in which fashionable clothes are designed, made, and sold 高级时装店.
编者注*：因在本文中LVMH其实是一个大的时尚精品集团，故house 译为集团更合适。
ready-to-wear
ADJ Ready-to-wear clothes are made in standard sizes so that they fit most people, rather than being made specially for a particular person. (衣服)现成的; 非定制的; 即买即穿的 [ADJ n]
Karl Lagerfeld, the German designer who was the artistic director of Chanel and Fendi and also created his own brand, has died in Paris. For years, Lagerfeld sought to obscure his age; he was reportedly 85.
香奈儿和芬迪的艺术总监，也创建了自主品牌的德国设计师卡尔拉格斐已于巴黎去世。据报导，拉格斐逝世时享年85岁，多年来，他一直对自己的年龄讳莫如深。
Seek to obscure 有意隐瞒，讳莫如深
obscure /əbˈskjʊə/
ADJ If something or someone is obscure, they are unknown, or are known by only a few people. 鲜为人知的
ADJ Something that is obscure is difficult to understand or deal with, usually because it involves so many parts or details. 复杂难懂的; 难处理的
V-T If one thing obscures another, it prevents it from being seen or heard properly. 遮掩
V-T To obscure something means to make it difficult to understand. 使…难懂
Lagerfeld worked with some of fashion's biggest design houses, showing a knack for reinventing classic styles with innovative flourishes. In the process, he brought Fendi to new heights in the 1960s and revamped Chanel after being named that brand's director in the 1980s.
拉格斐曾与时尚界数个大牌工作室合作，展现出重塑经典，令其焕然一新的鬼才。在此期间，他曾于上世纪60年代带领Fendi节节高升，在80年代担任香奈儿品牌总监后亦令其脱胎换骨。
knack /næk/
N-COUNT A knack is a particularly clever or skillful way of doing something successfully, especially something which most people find difficult. 诀窍
reinvent /ˌriːɪnˈvɛnt/
V-T To reinvent something means to change it so that it seems different and new. 彻底改变; 改造
flourish /ˈflʌrɪʃ/
V-I If something flourishes, it is successful, active, or common, and developing quickly and strongly. 繁荣; 兴旺
revamp /riːˈvæmp/
V-T If someone revamps something, they make changes to it in order to try and improve it. 修改; 改进
N-SING Revamp is also a noun. 修改; 改进
Chanel announced the designer's death Tuesday, less than a month after he uncharacteristically missed shows for the fashion house, prompting questions about his health.
香奈儿于星期二发布设计师讣告。不到一个月前，他曾不同以往地缺席了该品牌的时装秀，令外界不免担忧他的健康。
uncharacteristically [,ʌn,kæriktə'ristikli ]
adv. in uncharacteristic manner不典型地；非同寻常地； 一反常态地
As news of his death spread, Lagerfeld's peers in the fashion industry quickly paid tribute to a figure who was at once immediately recognizable and endlessly enigmatic.
拉格斐的死讯传开后，时尚界的同仁们迅速向这位曾经一下子变得无人不识却又高深莫测的人表示致敬。
recognizable /ˌrɛkəɡˈnaɪzəbəl/ BRIT also recognisable
ADJ If something can be easily recognized or identified, you can say that it is easily recognizable. 可辨认的; 可认出的
enigmatic /ˌɛnɪɡˈmætɪk/
ADJ Someone or something that is enigmatic is mysterious and difficult to understand. 神秘难解的
"Karl your genius touched the lives of so many, especially Gianni and I," said Donatella Versace . "We will never forget your incredible talent and endless inspiration. We were always learning from you."
"卡尔你的天分影响了无数人，特别是吉安尼和我"唐纳特纳范思哲在Ins上写道"我们将永不忘记你那不可思议的才华和永无止境的启迪，我们一直都在向您学习"
"With the passing of Karl Lagerfeld we have lost a creative genius who helped to make Paris the fashion capital of the world and Fendi one of the most innovative Italian houses," said Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of Fendi owner LVMH. "We owe him a great deal: his taste and talent were the most exceptional I have ever known."
卡尔的逝世让我们痛失一位创意天才。巴黎能成为世界时尚之都，芬迪能成为最具创新力的意大利时尚品牌，卡尔功不可没",路易威登集团董事长兼总经理伯纳德阿诺特说，"他带给我们太多：以我所知，他的品味和天才无与伦比。"
Discussing Lagerfeld's style, NPR's Susan Stamberg :
"For instance, a daysuit ... with a typical Chanel cardigan jacket, outlined at the neck and waistline, of wool boucle in ivory and beige, with shots of coral. The lining is silk. The real Lagerfeld part: the illusion of unraveling wool, laced with color, at the skirt and cuffs."
说到拉格斐的风格，NPR编辑苏三斯坦伯格2005年曾言："比如说一件日装…配上经典的香奈儿开襟羊毛衫-用乳白色或米黄色羊毛呢在领口及腰身修边，间或缀以珊瑚色, 里衬是真丝的。 拉格斐的精髓在于让裙摆及袖口附有着色花边的不织羊毛制造错觉。
cardigan /ˈkɑːdɪɡən/
N-COUNT A cardigan is a knitted woollen sweater that you can fasten at the front with buttons or a zipper. 开襟羊毛衫
boucle [bu:'klei]
Noun. 毛圈花式线；仿羔皮呢，珠皮呢
unravel /ʌnˈrævəl/
1. V-T/V-I If you unravel something that is knotted, woven, or knitted, or if it unravels, it becomes one straight piece again or separates into its different threads. 解开; 拆散
2. V-T/V-I If you unravel a mystery or puzzle, or it unravels, it gradually becomes clearer until you can work out the answer to it. 揭开
Lagerfeld acknowledges applause following a Chanel show in Paris in 2013. Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images
2013年香奈儿时装秀结束后，拉格斐接受观众喝彩
With his trademark ponytail and dark glasses, Lagerfeld was a fixture in the world's art hubs, fashion's high priest in a tailored black jacket. He once called his glasses "my burka" and referred to his public image as a mask, a caricature of himself that he embraced.
留着招牌式马尾发型，戴着墨镜，穿着量身定做的黑夹克，拉格斐曾是世界各个艺术中心的常客，时尚界的教主。
He also was famous for speaking his mind, with a quick wit and a knack for making outrageous comments.
Women can be short, but for men it is impossible. It is something that they will not forgive in life ... they are mean and they want to kill you."
他也是出了名的直言不讳，常常心直口快，语出惊人。
"生活不是什么选美比赛，有些"丑人" 真的是多作怪" 拉格斐曾说, " 我讨厌猥琐丑陋的人，尤其是又丑又矮的男人。女人矮还可以原谅，男人矮却万万不能，因为他们始终会耿耿于怀，会很刻薄，恨不得可以杀人。"
On more practical matters, Lagerfeld called the garbage can the most important thing in a house. The designer also condemned a common piece of clothing by linking it with an existential calamity: "Sweatpants are a sign of defeat. You lost control of your life so you bought some sweatpants."
还有一个实锤，拉格斐曾把垃圾箱视作一个家里最重要的东西。他还把一件常见的衣物同存在主义灾难联系到一块并加以谴责: "运动裤是失败的象征，只有生活失控的人才会买运动裤。"
existential /ˌɛɡzɪˈstɛnʃəl/
ADJ Existential means relating to human existence and experience. 人类存在的 [正式] 有关存在的；
calamity /kəˈlæmɪtɪ/
N-VAR A calamity is an event that causes a great deal of damage, destruction, or personal distress. 灾难 [正式]
Lagerfeld often spoke about women's weight and appearance, and he gravitated toward beautiful models and actresses, from Kate Moss to Kristen Stewart. But he was sharply criticized last year over comments that chided models as well as the MeToo movement — "I'm fed up with it," he said, in an interview in which he said models who don't want to be touched should join a nunnery.
拉格斐经常对女性的体重和外表评头论足，他青睐漂亮的模特和演员，从凯特摩斯到克里斯汀斯图尔特。不过去年针对模特及MeToo运动的一番责骂言论也是他遭到尖锐批评。 " 我受够了"，在一次采访中他说："做模特摸都不让摸，那不如进尼姑庵。"
In response, the issued a statement saying in part, "Times have changed — and, with it, fashion's moral standing and accountability must as well."
作为回应，模特联盟发表了一份申明说: 时代已经变了，因该跟着变的还有时尚界人士的人品和道德责任。
Lagerfeld with models Cindy Crawford, Helena Christensen and Claudia Schiffer at a Chanel show in 1993.
Lionel Cironneau/Associated Press
拉格斐和模特辛迪克劳福德，海莱娜 克里斯汀以及克劳迪诗菲尔在1993年的香奈儿秀场
A contemporary and friend of both Yves Saint Laurent and Andy Warhol, Lagerfeld was prolific in the design world and active on the business front, selling his namesake label to Tommy Hilfiger in 2004. He also forged partnerships with H&M and Macy's, in a bid to further his reach beyond high-end fashion.
作为伊芙斯.圣.劳伦和安迪-沃霍尔的同时代好友，拉格菲尔德在设计领域是很多产的，同时在商业上也很活跃，他曾将自己的同名品牌于2004年卖给汤米.希尔费格。他同时还与H&M和梅西百货的合作，以此拓展自己在高端时尚业意外的活动。
Lagerfeld's celebrity also extended into films, from Pedro Almodovar's High Heels in 1991 to Julie Delpy's Lolo in 2016.
拉格菲尔德同时还在电影界有所涉足，他在1991年曾出演佩德罗.阿莫多瓦的《高跟鞋》以及2016年出演了朱莉.德尔佩的电影《洛洛》。
While he created a personal empire in the world of luxury and couture, Lagerfeld occasionally was upbraided for living a profligate lifestyle, amassing art and furniture and seemingly using his personal life to mirror the spectacles he created for fashion houses.
在一手打造自己的奢侈品及时装帝国时，拉格斐也因自己挥霍无度的生活作风饱受争议。他大肆收藏艺术品及家具，似乎想用自己的生活阐述他为那些时尚大牌所创造的奢华感。
Lagerfeld dismissed criticisms of his spending habits, saying, "If you throw money out of the window, throw it out with joy. Don't say: 'One shouldn't do that' — that is bourgeois."
对于自己生活习惯的批评，拉格斐置之不理，他说："假如要把钱丢出窗外，那就痛痛快快地丢。不要说什么 ：'你不能这样'—那太中产阶级了。"
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