Wine Legend: Clos Rougeard, Le Bourg 1990
名酒傳——紅雅酒莊布爾格園1990年份葡萄酒
Clos Rougeard, Le Bourg 1990 is a legend because…
Based in the village of Chacé, southeast of Saumur, Nady Foucault and his brother Charly make wines from their 20 hectares of vines that have acquired cult status. Of their two main vineyards, Poyeux and Bourg, it is the latter which has become most prized. While some vintages can be enjoyed in their youth, top years are best cellared for 10 years or more to reveal their aromatic complexity, silky texture and finesse. In 1993 a bottle of Le Bourg 1990 was surreptitiously included in a blind tasting of top 1990 Pomerols, including Pétrus, Le Pin and Trotanoy, and it received the highest average score. A cult was born.
緣起……
在索米爾東南部的Chacé村，納迪·福柯和他的兄弟查理在20公頃的葡萄園中釀製葡萄酒，取得令人尊敬的成就。 在他們的兩個主要的葡萄園Poyeux和Bourg中，後者最受矚目。 儘管可以品嚐到一些年輕的年份酒，但最好的年份酒是窖藏10年或更長的時間，以顯示其複雜芳香和柔滑細膩的質地。 1993年，一瓶1990年份的布爾格葡萄酒跟包括1990年份的波美侯，帕圖斯，李鵬莊，卓龍莊酒一起被盲品，布爾格園的酒獲得了最高平均分，於是，崇拜產生了。
Looking back
In 1990 the Foucault brothers, the eighth generation of their family to farm in Saumur-Champigny, stood out thanks to their regular use of barriques to age their wines, at a time when many of their neighbours were ageing their Cabernet Franc in large casks or stainless steel tanks so as to produce a less structured wine. The very concentrated Le Bourg is far from the stereotype of Saumur-Champigny as a light wine to quaff in bars and bistros.
回顧
1990年，福柯兄弟作為他們家族的第八代Saumur-Champigny葡萄園種植者，能夠脫穎而出，得益於他們嚴格地堅持用橡木桶陳釀，而當時他們的鄰居是用大桶或不鏽鋼罐來熟化品麗珠，釀出的酒結構鬆散。非常集中的布爾格園酒遠不像刻板的Saumur-Champigny款式，它是一種適宜在酒吧和小酒館中飲用的風格輕淡的葡萄酒。
The vintage
This was an extremely hot, dry year. Some rain towards the end of summer proved beneficial and allowed the grapes to ripen fully, although in some generously cropped vineyards this caused dilution. The best wines are proving to be long-lived.
年份
這是一個非常炎熱乾燥的年份。 夏末的一些降雨證明是於作物很有益的，使得葡萄充分成熟，儘管在一些高產的葡萄園裡，客觀上造成稀釋。 最好的葡萄酒被證明是長壽的。
The terroir
The single hectare of Cabernet Franc vines in Le Bourg, located just behind the domaine’s cellars, are about 70 years old. The soils are a thin clay with limestone and are organically farmed. As rare as Le Bourg is Clos Rougeard’s white, made from 1ha of old-vine Chenin Blanc. The vineyards, replanted using massal selections, are ploughed and manually harvested. Yields are kept very low to ensure that the wines have sufficient concentration to withstand and benefit from prolonged barrel ageing.
風土
布爾格園一公頃的品麗珠葡萄，恰好位於酒莊酒窖的後面，樹齡在70歲左右。 土壤是一種薄薄的石灰石粘土，有機耕種。稀罕的紅雅酒莊布爾格園白葡萄酒，是由1公頃的老藤品麗珠製成。 葡萄園經過大量篩選後重新栽植，並手工採摘。 產量保持在非常低的水平，以確保葡萄酒有足夠的濃度來經受並獲益於長時間的木桶陳釀。
The wine
After destemming, the grapes are fermented with indigenous yeasts in oak vats with either punchdowns or pumpovers, depending on the character of the fruit. Le Bourg goes through its malolactic fermentation in air-dried new barrels, in which it remains for between 18 and 24 months. The wine is unfiltered, and spends a further year in bottle before release. The Foucaults’ cold cellars, tunnelled into the rock, ensure that the wines’ evolution is slow.
葡萄酒
去梗後，葡萄在橡木桶中與本土酵母一起發酵，伴隨著壓帽或泵送——取決於果實特質。 布爾格園酒在經過風乾的新桶中進行蘋果乳酸發酵，並在其中陳釀18到24個月。 葡萄酒未經過濾，在發行前繼續在瓶內熟化一年。福柯的冷藏酒窖隧道深入岩石，確保了葡萄酒可以緩慢進化。
The reaction
In March 2015, Antoine Gerbelle of La Revue du Vins de France noted: ‘On opening, it appeared corked, but no. The aromas of damp mushroom vanished after 10 minutes. The nose opened to reveal a bouquet of cooked red fruits, cherries and spices. On the palate the wine still had breadth, weight and a Pinot-like tone that reminded me of a Volnay with more body: again, this balance of a basket of cherries, small red fruits and spices. Still youthful!’
Richard Bernard, sommelier at the renowned Bordeaux restaurant Le St-James, said in a 2014 interview with Decanter that it was the best wine he had ever drunk.
反響
2015年3月，《葡萄酒評論》的Antoine Gerbelle指出：“開瓶時，它像是有些軟木塞腐氣，事實上不是。 潮溼蘑菇的氣味在10分鐘後消失。透露出煮熟的紅果、櫻桃和香料的氣味。 在口感上，葡萄酒仍然具有寬厚，深沉酒體和一種類似黑比諾的氣息，讓我想起了酒體更沉重的Volnay：又是一款平衡完美，包含有櫻桃，小紅果和香料風味的葡萄酒。 仍處在年輕狀態！”
著名的波爾多餐廳Le St-James的侍酒師Richard Bernard在2014年接受《品醇客》採訪時說，這是他喝過的最好的葡萄酒。
The facts
Bottles produced 2,500
Composition 100% Cabernet Franc
Yield N/A
Alcohol 12.5%
Release price N/A
Price today N/A, though the wine has fetched E450 at auction in the recent past
數據
瓶裝量：2500
成分：100％品麗珠
產量：未知
酒精度：12.5％
發行價：未知
現價：未知（儘管最近的拍賣會上，它取得450英鎊的拍價）
譯自——
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