Wine Legend: Wendouree, Shiraz 1990 (magnum) Clare Valley, South Australia
名酒傳——文多酒莊西拉子葡萄酒1990（南澳克萊爾谷）
Wendouree, Shiraz 1990 is a legend because…
Tony Brady has been crafting intensely flavoured wines from Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Mourvedre (Mataro) since 1974, when he took over running this small Clare Valley property. He has been aided in his project by carefully preserved Shiraz bush vines planted gradually between 1893 and 1920. These vines are still alive. As is the case with centenarian vines everywhere, the production is low and generally self-regulating, and yields rarely exceed 30 hectolitres per hectare. This legendary 1990 Shiraz is made from the original Shiraz bush vines (block 24B) and was released only in magnum. Australian critic James Halliday has described Wendouree as a ‘living treasure’.
緣起……
自1974年接管這個克萊爾谷的小型葡萄園以來，託尼·布雷迪一直致力於以西拉，赤霞珠，馬爾貝克和慕合懷特葡萄品種釀製風格濃郁的葡萄酒。 葡萄園得天獨厚的是被精心呵護的種植於1893年至1922年間的西拉葡萄，到他接手時還活得好好的。 與世界各地的百年老園一樣，生產水平低，一般自我調節， 產量很少超過每公頃3000公升。 這款傳奇的1990年設拉子由原始的西拉葡萄藤（24B地塊）製成，並且僅以大酒瓶發行。 澳大利亞評論家詹姆斯哈利迪將溫多里描述為“活著的珍寶”。
Looking back
In the 1920s and ’30s about half the wine from Wendouree was based on Muscat of Alexandria and fortified, the remainder being red. It was mostly sold locally to restaurants. Birks’ son Roly had become the winemaker in 1917, and remained active until 1983. He bottled very little wine, but sold grapes to other wineries. This continued into the 1950s and ’60s, although more of the wine was being sent to WJ Seabrook, a Melbourne merchant, where its reputation grew. In 1970 Birks, then in his late 70s, retired. He found a purchaser, but the new owners went bankrupt and the vineyards were all but abandoned, having shrunk from 25ha to 12ha. Then in 1974 businessman Max Liberman bought the decrepit property and entrusted it to his son-in-law, Tony Brady. This saved Wendouree from likely extinction. Brady was a lawyer by training, with no experience of winemaking. Fortunately, his wife Lolita took courses, although it was some years before Wendouree could give up bulk sales and focus on bottling its own wines.
回顧
在20世紀20年代和30年代，文多酒莊的葡萄酒有一半是基於亞歷山大麝香葡萄釀造的強化酒，保留下來的酒是紅色的。絕大部分酒是賣給當地餐館的。伯克斯的兒子羅利在1917年成為釀酒師，一直到1983年仍保持活躍。他只做很少量的瓶裝酒，卻把葡萄賣給其他的葡萄酒廠。這種情況持續到上世紀50年代和60年代，儘管更多的葡萄酒被送給了墨爾本的酒商WJ Seabrook，在那裡它的聲譽日隆。1970年，快70歲的伯克斯退休了。他找到了一個買主，但是新業主破產了，葡萄園幾乎都被廢棄了，從25公頃縮減到12公頃。1974年，商人馬克斯·利伯曼買下了殘破的葡萄園，並將其委託給他的女婿託尼·布雷迪管理。這使文多酒莊免於可能的滅絕。布雷迪是一名受過專業培訓的律師，但沒有釀酒的經驗。幸運的是，他的妻子洛麗塔(Lolita)受過一些培訓，儘管那是在文多酒莊放棄大宗銷售並專注於將自己的葡萄酒瓶裝之前好些年。
The vintage
After a wet spring, summer was cool in South Australia. But it remained dry, causing some stress, although ancient vines such as those at Wendouree were largely immune. Yields were average and quality high.
年份
經過溼潤的春季，南澳大利亞夏季涼爽。 但它仍然乾旱，給葡萄園造成一些壓力，儘管文多酒莊的老藤葡萄是耐旱的。當年產量達到平均數且質量上乘。
The terroir
The vineyards occupy 12ha. They are planted on reddish-brown loam soils over a limestone subsoil and are dry-farmed. This wine was made from the original bush-vine Shiraz vineyard of 0.75ha with a total of 952 vines.
風土
葡萄園佔地12公頃。 它們種植在石灰石底土上的紅棕壤土上，旱地耕作。 這種葡萄酒由葡萄園0.75公頃、總共952顆的原始老藤西拉制成。
The wine
During harvest the grapes are taken to the stone winery, which was completed in 1903, making it of roughly the same vintage as the venerable vineyard. The grapes are vinified in open-top fermenters of moderate size, and during fermentation it is usual for some of the alcohol to evaporate. An ancient basket press, dating from 1898, is still in use. Malolactic fermentation generally takes place in tanks, while the finished wine is aged in 300-litre barrels, of which no more than 25% are new. This 1990 was released in 900 magnums in 1995 to mark the centenary of the property. (There is another 1990, released in 750ml bottles, but it was made from 1919 trellised Shiraz.) The label, designed in 1900, has been unaltered ever since.
酒
在收穫的過程中，葡萄被帶到1903年建成的石酒莊，與古老的葡萄園大致相同。這些葡萄是在中等大小的開頂發酵器中釀造的，在發酵過程中，一些酒精會蒸發。從1898年開始的一種古老的籃筐仍在使用中。蘋果酸乳酸發酵通常發生在桶中，而成品葡萄酒的陳釀在300升的桶中，其中不超過25%是新的。這個1990年在1995年發行了900個magnums，以紀念財產的百年。(還有一個1990年發行的750ml的瓶子，但它是由1919年的設拉子製造的。)這個標籤是1900年設計的，從那以後就一直沒有改變
The reaction
Andrew Caillard MW of auction house Langton’s, which classifies Wendouree Shiraz as one of the 21 ‘exceptional’ wines in its Classification of Australian Wine, tasted the 1990 in magnum in 1991. He noted: ‘Very complex, ethereal prune/raspberry and slightly salty/rusty aromas. The palate is strongly flavoured and immensely tannic with developed blackberry/raspberry fruit and rusty leather nuances, massive concentration and lock-jawing, iron-like tannins. Needless to say it finishes extremely firm. Will it soften out?’ Caillard says Wendouree Shiraz ‘offers wine drinkers a window into Australia’s colonial past’. In 1992, noted Australian wine writer and Decanter contributor Huon Hooke was impressed: ‘Loaded with vanilla/cherry tastes and huge tannins but also huge flavour to match. It’s a wine to keep for at least five years and drink for 20 thereafter.’
反響
朗頓拍賣行的安德魯•卡拉德•瓦萊(Andrew Caillard MW)將Wendouree Shiraz列為澳大利亞葡萄酒分類中的21種“特殊”葡萄酒之一，1991年在magnum品嚐了1990年的葡萄酒。他注意到:“非常複雜，飄逸的李子/覆盆子，略帶鹹味/鏽跡斑斑的香氣。”口感強烈，有黑莓/覆盆子水果和生鏽的皮革的細微差別，大量的濃縮和鎖緊，鐵般的單寧。不用說，它完成得非常牢固。它會軟化?Caillard說，Wendouree Shiraz為葡萄酒愛好者提供了一扇通往澳大利亞殖民地歷史的窗口。1992年，著名的澳大利亞葡萄酒作家兼酒商胡恩·胡克(Huon Hooke)對此印象深刻:“有香草/櫻桃的味道，還有巨大的單寧，但也有巨大的味道。”這是一種至少可以保存5年的酒，之後再喝20年。
The facts
Number of bottles produced 900 magnums
Composition of blend 100% Shiraz
Yield (hl/ha) 19hl/ha
Alcohol content 13.8%
Release price AU$100 (about £45 at the time)
Price today £121.60
數據
混合物的組成100％西拉
產量（hl / ha）19hl / ha
酒精含量13.8％
發行價格為100澳元（當時約為45英鎊）
今日價格£121.60
譯自——
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