Wine Legend: Wendouree, Shiraz 1990 (magnum) Clare Valley, South Australia
名酒传——文多酒庄西拉子葡萄酒1990（南澳克莱尔谷）
Wendouree, Shiraz 1990 is a legend because…
Tony Brady has been crafting intensely flavoured wines from Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Mourvedre (Mataro) since 1974, when he took over running this small Clare Valley property. He has been aided in his project by carefully preserved Shiraz bush vines planted gradually between 1893 and 1920. These vines are still alive. As is the case with centenarian vines everywhere, the production is low and generally self-regulating, and yields rarely exceed 30 hectolitres per hectare. This legendary 1990 Shiraz is made from the original Shiraz bush vines (block 24B) and was released only in magnum. Australian critic James Halliday has described Wendouree as a ‘living treasure’.
缘起……
自1974年接管这个克莱尔谷的小型葡萄园以来，托尼·布雷迪一直致力于以西拉，赤霞珠，马尔贝克和慕合怀特葡萄品种酿制风格浓郁的葡萄酒。 葡萄园得天独厚的是被精心呵护的种植于1893年至1922年间的西拉葡萄，到他接手时还活得好好的。 与世界各地的百年老园一样，生产水平低，一般自我调节， 产量很少超过每公顷3000公升。 这款传奇的1990年设拉子由原始的西拉葡萄藤（24B地块）制成，并且仅以大酒瓶发行。 澳大利亚评论家詹姆斯哈利迪将温多里描述为“活着的珍宝”。
Looking back
In the 1920s and ’30s about half the wine from Wendouree was based on Muscat of Alexandria and fortified, the remainder being red. It was mostly sold locally to restaurants. Birks’ son Roly had become the winemaker in 1917, and remained active until 1983. He bottled very little wine, but sold grapes to other wineries. This continued into the 1950s and ’60s, although more of the wine was being sent to WJ Seabrook, a Melbourne merchant, where its reputation grew. In 1970 Birks, then in his late 70s, retired. He found a purchaser, but the new owners went bankrupt and the vineyards were all but abandoned, having shrunk from 25ha to 12ha. Then in 1974 businessman Max Liberman bought the decrepit property and entrusted it to his son-in-law, Tony Brady. This saved Wendouree from likely extinction. Brady was a lawyer by training, with no experience of winemaking. Fortunately, his wife Lolita took courses, although it was some years before Wendouree could give up bulk sales and focus on bottling its own wines.
回顾
在20世纪20年代和30年代，文多酒庄的葡萄酒有一半是基于亚历山大麝香葡萄酿造的强化酒，保留下来的酒是红色的。绝大部分酒是卖给当地餐馆的。伯克斯的儿子罗利在1917年成为酿酒师，一直到1983年仍保持活跃。他只做很少量的瓶装酒，却把葡萄卖给其他的葡萄酒厂。这种情况持续到上世纪50年代和60年代，尽管更多的葡萄酒被送给了墨尔本的酒商WJ Seabrook，在那里它的声誉日隆。1970年，快70岁的伯克斯退休了。他找到了一个买主，但是新业主破产了，葡萄园几乎都被废弃了，从25公顷缩减到12公顷。1974年，商人马克斯·利伯曼买下了残破的葡萄园，并将其委托给他的女婿托尼·布雷迪管理。这使文多酒庄免于可能的灭绝。布雷迪是一名受过专业培训的律师，但没有酿酒的经验。幸运的是，他的妻子洛丽塔(Lolita)受过一些培训，尽管那是在文多酒庄放弃大宗销售并专注于将自己的葡萄酒瓶装之前好些年。
The vintage
After a wet spring, summer was cool in South Australia. But it remained dry, causing some stress, although ancient vines such as those at Wendouree were largely immune. Yields were average and quality high.
年份
经过湿润的春季，南澳大利亚夏季凉爽。 但它仍然干旱，给葡萄园造成一些压力，尽管文多酒庄的老藤葡萄是耐旱的。当年产量达到平均数且质量上乘。
The terroir
The vineyards occupy 12ha. They are planted on reddish-brown loam soils over a limestone subsoil and are dry-farmed. This wine was made from the original bush-vine Shiraz vineyard of 0.75ha with a total of 952 vines.
风土
葡萄园占地12公顷。 它们种植在石灰石底土上的红棕壤土上，旱地耕作。 这种葡萄酒由葡萄园0.75公顷、总共952颗的原始老藤西拉制成。
The wine
During harvest the grapes are taken to the stone winery, which was completed in 1903, making it of roughly the same vintage as the venerable vineyard. The grapes are vinified in open-top fermenters of moderate size, and during fermentation it is usual for some of the alcohol to evaporate. An ancient basket press, dating from 1898, is still in use. Malolactic fermentation generally takes place in tanks, while the finished wine is aged in 300-litre barrels, of which no more than 25% are new. This 1990 was released in 900 magnums in 1995 to mark the centenary of the property. (There is another 1990, released in 750ml bottles, but it was made from 1919 trellised Shiraz.) The label, designed in 1900, has been unaltered ever since.
酒
在收获的过程中，葡萄被带到1903年建成的石酒庄，与古老的葡萄园大致相同。这些葡萄是在中等大小的开顶发酵器中酿造的，在发酵过程中，一些酒精会蒸发。从1898年开始的一种古老的篮筐仍在使用中。苹果酸乳酸发酵通常发生在桶中，而成品葡萄酒的陈酿在300升的桶中，其中不超过25%是新的。这个1990年在1995年发行了900个magnums，以纪念财产的百年。(还有一个1990年发行的750ml的瓶子，但它是由1919年的设拉子制造的。)这个标签是1900年设计的，从那以后就一直没有改变
The reaction
Andrew Caillard MW of auction house Langton’s, which classifies Wendouree Shiraz as one of the 21 ‘exceptional’ wines in its Classification of Australian Wine, tasted the 1990 in magnum in 1991. He noted: ‘Very complex, ethereal prune/raspberry and slightly salty/rusty aromas. The palate is strongly flavoured and immensely tannic with developed blackberry/raspberry fruit and rusty leather nuances, massive concentration and lock-jawing, iron-like tannins. Needless to say it finishes extremely firm. Will it soften out?’ Caillard says Wendouree Shiraz ‘offers wine drinkers a window into Australia’s colonial past’. In 1992, noted Australian wine writer and Decanter contributor Huon Hooke was impressed: ‘Loaded with vanilla/cherry tastes and huge tannins but also huge flavour to match. It’s a wine to keep for at least five years and drink for 20 thereafter.’
反响
朗顿拍卖行的安德鲁•卡拉德•瓦莱(Andrew Caillard MW)将Wendouree Shiraz列为澳大利亚葡萄酒分类中的21种“特殊”葡萄酒之一，1991年在magnum品尝了1990年的葡萄酒。他注意到:“非常复杂，飘逸的李子/覆盆子，略带咸味/锈迹斑斑的香气。”口感强烈，有黑莓/覆盆子水果和生锈的皮革的细微差别，大量的浓缩和锁紧，铁般的单宁。不用说，它完成得非常牢固。它会软化?Caillard说，Wendouree Shiraz为葡萄酒爱好者提供了一扇通往澳大利亚殖民地历史的窗口。1992年，著名的澳大利亚葡萄酒作家兼酒商胡恩·胡克(Huon Hooke)对此印象深刻:“有香草/樱桃的味道，还有巨大的单宁，但也有巨大的味道。”这是一种至少可以保存5年的酒，之后再喝20年。
The facts
Number of bottles produced 900 magnums
Composition of blend 100% Shiraz
Yield (hl/ha) 19hl/ha
Alcohol content 13.8%
Release price AU$100 (about £45 at the time)
Price today £121.60
数据
混合物的组成100％西拉
产量（hl / ha）19hl / ha
酒精含量13.8％
发行价格为100澳元（当时约为45英镑）
今日价格£121.60
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