攝影 付謙（北京）
來到意大利，便感受到羅馬的偉大，佛羅倫薩的文藝，而在維羅納，我感受到愛在飄蕩。
來到意大利，便感受到羅馬的偉大，威尼斯的秀麗，佛羅倫薩的文藝，而在維羅納，我感受到愛在飄蕩。
維羅納小鎮在意大利北部，阿爾卑斯山腳下，美麗的阿迪傑河把小鎮一分為二。這裡是莎士比亞名著的《羅密歐與朱麗葉》的誕生地，更是我向往已久的小鎮。它可以把對莎翁的想象填補進去，親身體驗愛情聖地的感受，領悟於此，也就領悟了它的魅力。
愛是這座小鎮的主題，它隨莎翁輾轉而來，他一來到這裡，《羅密歐與朱麗葉》就問世，愛在維羅納從此飄蕩起來，小鎮立刻優雅起來，原本承載歷史仇恨和戰爭的小鎮，那麼莊嚴的表情，瞬間有了溫柔態度，更有了微笑，它與沉靜的莎士比亞心眼同時，會心一笑，使維羅納成為愛情聖地的開端，更為它的歷史文化增添了奪目的一頁，跟著腳步去走走看看，連小鎮、古蹟、教堂也都隨之變得輕鬆和疏朗。
維羅納曾是交通要道、軍事要塞，當人們不再痴迷戰火，再經由莎翁的創造，瞬間變成了全人類共享的藝術經典，一下就設定了它的主題，其它不再重要。在羅馬和佛羅倫薩，愛情總是置於上帝和天使之間、穹頂之上，你永遠需要仰望。在這座小鎮，愛就蘊含在你的身邊，不事聲張的飄蕩，連一個得意的表情也沒有，如春雨潤物無聲，在這裡已經數百年。
維羅納古城，要數努奧瓦門繁忙，仗著吞吐過無數尋覓愛情的人與歷史，自覺氣魄非凡。門的右側有一尊城堡，像位長者，大哲大美，再仔細看，身上的文化，使軀體變大，大得兼容幷包、寬厚體諒，很有長者風範。它會提醒你，最好要有微笑的準備，這種微笑，是對愛的會心，城堡經過千年歷史磨礪，早已超越我的閱歷和智慧，因此覺得可以依靠，可以信賴。當我走進古城的瞬間，腦海浮現出莎士比亞眼角中流露出的幽默笑意，這種笑意的內涵，正由靜靜的街巷在註釋，漫步其間，彷彿時代倒流，人們對愛的會心與笑聲迴盪在小鎮。
維羅納人，總有辦法換著花樣，創造著愛的衍伸氛圍和產品，到處是出售紀念品的商店，也可現場加工製作，將情侶的名字印在圍裙上，或者其他家居用品上，成為物美價廉又有寓意的紀念品。這裡各類舊書店的收藏，聞名於世，書店又喜歡將舊物古玩放在一起展示售賣，對喜歡收藏的人來說，絕對是個機遇，為這座小鎮增添了幾分神秘色彩，別有一番情趣。
維羅納露天劇場夜景
要說維羅納有哪一種景緻讓人排長隊不會厭煩，只有朱麗葉故居了，它位於卡佩羅街23號。要是想進入故居，收費6歐元，自然也不可不試。因為一個故居，維羅納開始重生，這肯定是絕好的案例。這座故居和它的陽臺，為維羅納帶來了經濟收入，小鎮活力隨之復甦。朱麗葉的故居展品，圍繞愛的主題而成，故事層疊起伏，感人至深，建築本身就是一件耐人尋味的藝術展品。
一座典型的幽深中世紀院落，牆壁上攀爬著碧綠的藤蔓，牆上有無數遊客愛情誓言的塗鴉。
一尊真人高矮的朱麗葉青銅塑像亭亭玉立、深情而又略帶哀怨。傳說觸摸塑像的右胸，能帶來美好的愛情，如今朱麗葉塑像的右胸顯得尤為鋥亮。
莎翁筆下著名的大理石陽臺，位於朱麗葉雕像的上方，它歷歷如繪地講述著朱麗葉的一生，諸如這座陽臺：它是愛情前奏，羅密歐是怎樣攀爬上去的？我不禁為之讚歎，沒人見過羅密歐與朱麗葉站在陽臺的本樣，只有莎翁記得。但不妨礙無數人的仰望，在陽臺下的牆壁上寫下愛情箴言，再去觸摸朱麗葉塑像的右胸、合影。人總是借景喻物，戀物的心理，給無數人遐想，他們在陽臺的姿態早已由靜止變成流淌著悽婉愛情的交響曲。曲調至最高層次上，詮釋出美妙絕倫的愛情音符和色彩，打開了無數人的心扉，充滿愛情的旋律，飄蕩在維羅納，終年不息。隨著莎翁從深情收筆，猶如音樂指揮的斷然手勢，萬籟俱寂。只有到了這時，人們不再喧譁，開始回憶，開始追悔，開始期待，開始紀念。
此時，我忽然想起湯顯祖《牡丹亭》中那句詩：“情不知所起，一往而深，生者可以死，死可以生……”這首詩恰好是對此景此情的詮釋。當時在歐洲，能與莎翁比肩的還有塞萬提斯、歌德。但東方也站立著一位戲劇大師，他就是湯顯祖，中國明代戲曲家、文學家，他可以與莎士比亞相提並論，他的著名作品《牡丹亭》與《羅密歐與朱麗葉》不分伯仲。牡丹亭這部作品，所展示的不僅是戲劇家湯顯祖，還有他身上的光彩照人之處，戲劇創作，憂念蒼生，濟世為民，剛直不阿，以道抗勢。更使湯顯祖這位大師，立體而豐富地呈現在我們的眼前。兩位大師在敘事、戲劇、抒情創作中，達到登峰造極的地步，如此的默契。
莎翁對於維羅納和世人、他的故鄉都是幸事。正是因為《羅密歐與朱麗葉》，他家鄉的斯特拉特福小鎮，同樣足以流芳百世，直抵人心。其恆在的價值和意義，正如英國前首相丘吉爾的那句名言：“我寧願失去一個印度，也不願失去一個莎士比亞。”但中國湯顯祖的藝術魅力，也穿越東西方四百年的時光，即便路途遙遠，我想莎翁也會遙相致敬。他們的人生，體現著對愛情美好的追求和嚮往，在人類文明的蒼穹下，得以光耀千秋——無論東方與西方。
維羅納歌劇節現場
維羅納，每一種風光，能讓人讚歎萬千，還提醒你慢下來，讓你尋找“愛的宣言”。每條小巷、每塊石板都有戀人走過的痕跡，幾乎每棟建築的角落都能找到戀人們留下的“愛的宣言”。小巷裡的房屋色調、窗戶造型，讓人恍如走進中世紀，街巷有些窄，用鵝卵石鋪砌，被歲月磨的光滑，它滑過一座座古樸的建築，拾掇著歷史文化碎片。抬頭再看，陽臺和窗口種植著各種色彩的花卉，此時天還沒黑，等斜陽將兩邊窗口的鮮花點燃，兩番鮮亮，近在咫尺。等夕陽一收，露天劇場窗口便映出緋紅，人人臉上都神采奕奕，不管是夕陽還是燈光，都把他們映照成紅紅的韻彩。愛情是小鎮永恆的主題，每年6月至8月的維羅納歌劇節，就在建於公元1世紀的露天劇場演出，《羅密歐與朱麗葉》《圖蘭朵》《卡門》都是歌劇節的保留場次。演出觀眾坐在石階上，手持蠟燭，音樂優美，燭光閃爍如繁星，如同仙境。
除了莎翁筆下《羅密歐與朱麗葉》這部浪漫的文學作品之外，這座小鎮也承載著真實的歷史。阿迪傑河上的皮耶特拉橋不僅是維羅納的地標，還是古羅馬時期修建的三座橋中唯一倖存的一座，最早為木質結構，屢次毀於洪水而重建。白天河水是淡青色，到了傍晚，樹尖上流連著淡淡的夕陽，一切籠罩在淡鬱的金色中。倚欄而眺小鎮猶如在畫布上，一切皆被簡化且重加安排，精確而細膩，雖不及莎翁最高成就，卻迷人純真，難以抗拒。
維羅納小鎮不大，從朱麗葉故居出來，去但丁廣場，拜謁但丁雕像，還有維羅納的著名標誌：西紐利廣場中央的聖女噴泉，聖安娜斯塔西亞教堂也看過。只要用心稍細，便能發現，斯卡利哲家族把很多文化景點，都歸諸於自己的門戶，可見這個家族確實是文藝復興運動強有力的支持者。這個家族與莎士比亞彼此一使勁，在維羅納造成了一種民眾性的文化甚至宗教的崇拜，成為令人神往的景象。
朱麗葉雕像
阿迪傑河上的皮耶特拉橋
在愛的旋律下，小鎮的秋天很美，走的累了，坐在街邊咖啡館的椅子上，要一杯咖啡，悠閒地看著熙熙攘攘的遊客，往來於故居。看著秋葉隨風擺動，紅黃交融，欣賞秋的燦爛。有人說，這裡是愛情的聖地；有人說，這裡是愛情宣言誕生地；我要說，愛永遠飄蕩在這裡。在這裡，我看到情侶，牽著手，不時親吻相擁，彼此眼睛柔亮，充滿自信，透著真情，堅信有情人終成眷屬。所有遊客的臉上，盪漾著的笑意，眼神凸顯著愛情彌堅，愛意把風都渲染的甜蜜，讓我看著舒服，美得不禁多看一眼。
維羅納雖然不大，但因莎士比亞創造性靈感，中世紀到文藝復興美學建築的構建，讓遊客在有限的空間內領悟遼闊的時空。維羅納不如羅馬繁榮，不如佛羅倫薩文藝，卻富足而安寧，人們過得悠閒、活得樂呵，有人曾形容這裡滿街都是愛情聖人，我想，並非是他們是聖人，或許只是他們比遊客多了一顆平常心，更懂得愛情舉足輕重罷了。從這個角度說，維羅納是一座飄蕩著愛的城市。
Love wanders in Verona
Author Fu Qian (Beijing)
Translator Jin Zi(Beijing)
When I came to Italy, I felt the greatness of Rome, the beauty of Venice, the art of Florence, and in Verona, I felt that love was drifting.
The town of Verona is in the north of Italy, at the foot of the Alps, and the beautiful Adige River divides the town into two. Here is the birthplace of Shakespeare's famous book "Romeo and Juliet", and it is the town I have longed for. It can fill in the imagination of Shakespeare, experience the feelings of the Holy Land of love, and understand it, and realize its charm.
Love is the theme of this town, and it has come with Shakespeare. When Shakespeare came here, "Romeo and Juliet" came out, love floated in Verona, the town immediately became elegant, the town that originally carried the historical hatred and war, so solemn expression, instantly gentle Attitude, more smile, it is a smile at the same time as the calm Shakespeare's heart, making Verona the beginning of a love holy place, adding a striking page to its history and culture. Follow the footsteps and walk around to see, even the town, monuments, churches have become easy and sparse.
Verona was once the main thoroughfare and military fortress. When people no longer obsessed with the war, and then through the creation of Shakespeare, they instantly became the art classics shared by all mankind. They set their themes, others are no longer important. . In Rome and Florence, love is always placed between God and angels, and you always have to look up. In this small town, love is in your side, no matter how loudly, even a smug expression, such as the spring rain and quiet, has been here for hundreds of years.
The ancient city of Verona, the number of Nuova Gates is busy, eager to breathe through countless people and history of love, consciously discouraged. There is a castle on the right side of the door, like an elder, a great sage, and then look carefully. The culture of the body makes the body bigger, and it is compatible with the package, generous and understanding, and has a long-standing style. It will remind you that it is best to have a smile preparation. This kind of smile is the heart of love. After a thousand years of history, the castle has already surpassed my experience and wisdom, so I feel that I can rely on it and trust. When I walked into the ancient city, my mind showed the humorous smile in Shakespeare's eyes. The connotation of this kind of smile was being commented on by quiet streets, strolling around, as if the times were back, people’s love for the heart. Resound with laughter in the town.
Verona people, there are always ways to change the pattern, create the atmosphere and products of love, everywhere is a souvenir shop, can also be processed on-site, the name of the couple printed on the apron, or other household items, Become a souvenir with good value and low price. The collections of various old bookstores are famous all over the world. The bookstores like to put old things and antiques together and display them for sale. It is definitely an opportunity for those who like to collect, adding a bit of mystery to this town. Interesting.
To say that Verona has a kind of scenery, people will not be bored in long queues, only belong to the former residence of Juliet, it is located at 23 Capello Street. If you want to enter the former residence, the fee is 6 euros, and naturally you can't try it. Because of a former residence, Verona began to be born again, this is definitely a perfect case. The former residence and its balcony brought economic income to Verona, and the vitality of the town recovered. Juliet’s former home exhibits are built around the theme of love. The story is undulating and touching, and the building itself is an intriguing art exhibit.
A typical deep medieval courtyard with green vines on the walls and countless graffiti on the walls.
A real tall and tall Juliet bronze statue is slim, affectionate and slightly sad. Legend has it that the right chest of the statue can bring the beauty of love, and now the right chest of Juliet's statue is particularly bright.
Shakespeare's famous marble balcony, located above the statue of Juliet, tells the story of Juliet's life, such as this balcony; it is a prelude to love, how does Romeo climb up? I can't help but admire, no one has seen Romeo and Juliet standing on the balcony, only Shakespeare remembers. But it does not hinder the expectation of countless people, write love rumors on the wall under the balcony, and then touch the right chest and group photo of Juliet's statue. People always rely on the metaphor, the psychology of fetishism, and imagining countless people. Their gestures on the balcony have long since become static and symphony of love. The tunes are at the highest level, interpreting the wonderful love notes and colors, opening the hearts of countless people, full of love melody, floating in Verona, endless year round. As Shakespeare took the pen from the deep feelings, it was like the categorical gesture of the music conductor. Only at this time, people no longer embarrassed, began to recall, began to repent, began to look forward to, began to commemorate.
At this point, I suddenly thought of the poem in Tang Xianzu's "Peony Pavilion"; "I don't know what to do, it goes deep and deep, the living can die, the death can be born...". This poem happens to be an interpretation of this situation. At that time in Europe, it was Cervantes and Goethe who could stand shoulder to shoulder with Shakespeare. But the East also stands a master of drama. He is Tang Xianzu, a Chinese Ming Dynasty opera singer and writer. He can be compared with Shakespeare. His famous work Peony Pavilion is similar to Romeo and Juliet. The work of Peony Pavilion is not only the dramatist Tang Xianzu, but also the radiance of his body, the creation of drama, the sorrow of the world, the world for the people, the straightforwardness, and the resistance. The master of Tang Xianzu is presented in front of our eyes in a three-dimensional and rich manner. In the narrative, drama, and lyrical creations, the two masters reached their peak, so tacit understanding and greatness.
Shakespeare was a blessing to Verona and the world, his hometown. It is precisely because of "Romeo and Juliet" that the town of Stratford in his hometown is equally powerful enough to reach the hearts of the people. Its constant value and significance, as the former British Prime Minister Churchill has a famous saying: "I would rather lose an Indian than to lose a Shakespeare." But the artistic charm of Tang Xianzu of China also crossed the East and West for four hundred years. Even if the road is far away, I think Shakespeare will pay tribute. Their life embodies the beautiful pursuit and yearning for love. Under the vastness of human civilization, it is possible to shine through the ages - both the East and the West.
中關村雜誌——新經濟·新科技·新文化
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