如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:下篇

如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:下篇

勃艮第的一级园是在第二次世界大战期间,于1943年才建立的等级,虽处战乱,却在极短的时间将许多葡萄园升为一级园,主要可能是为了应对德国占领区不强征列级园的政策。

如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:下篇


当时不属于德国占领区的勃艮第南部产区,因无此急迫性,所以没有建立一级园的分级,至今,马贡内区仍未建立任何一级园的分级系统。不过,区内的普依-富塞等产区已经开始朝一级园努力,薄若莱也希望在将来可以建立更详细的分级。

如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:下篇


因为行政区的划分与距离的因素,薄若莱、马贡内和夏隆内丘等三个南部产区自成一个酒商销售系统。1874年, Antoine Budker曾经针对这三个产区建立了一份分级名单,1893年发表在由 Danguy和 Vermorel合著的书中。三个地区知名酒村的主要葡萄园都一一被列入五个等级,例如弗勒莉的 Poncie, MoulinVent的 Clos des Thorins和 Rocheg,梅克雷的 Champ-Martin-吉弗里的 Clos Salomon等都名列一级。

如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:下篇

夏布利的分级发展跟金丘区有些不同,在根瘤蚜虫病之后,夏布利的葡萄园只剩数百公顷,并没有全部重新种植,因此在分级时,还涉及许多尚未种植葡萄的土地,有较多的争议。

如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:下篇

在1938年成立 Chablis法定产区时,特别成立委员会来界定产区范围,必须是 Kimmeridgian时期的岩层和土壤才能成为生产夏布利的葡萄园。在同一年,也建立了特级园的分级,一共有七片列级,共同成为一个法定产区,不各自独立。不过,夏布利的一级园却是比较晚近才发展出来的分级,到1967年才由村庄级中再分出一级园,原有二十四片葡萄园列级,但现在已经增加到七十九个。

如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:下篇


勃艮第葡萄园的分级一开始是建立在葡萄园的历史因素与知名度上,并非完全以葡萄园的自然条件与潜力为标准,在分级的时候也很少有精确的地质研究作为参考基础。现在经过历年来的修改与更正,整体看起来,大致称得上详尽与完善,但是跟所有分级一样,绝对不是勃艮第葡萄酒质量的绝对标准,一级园或村庄级的葡萄酒优于特级园的并不少见。

如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:下篇

勃艮第将一片独立的葡萄园称为 climat,虽然有等级上的差别,但更重要的是都自有个性,若论个人的风格喜好,有许多独特的村庄酒也可能比特级园或一级园更迷人。更何况因年份、树龄、种植与酿造方法等诸多因素,产自同一个 climat的葡萄酒也常有不同的风格表现。


How to Read the "Identity" of Burgundy Wines-Grading of Burgundy Wines: Part Ⅲ

Burgundy's first-class garden was established in 1943 during the Second World War. Although it was at war, many vineyards were upgraded to first-class garden in a very short period of time, mainly in response to Germany. The policy of not enlisting ranks of parks in the occupied areas is not enforced.

At that time, the southern Burgundy area, which was not part of the German occupation area, had no urgency, so there was no classification of first-class gardens. To date, no classification system for first-class gardens has been established in Magonny. However, Puy-Fusse and other production areas in the region have begun to work towards the first-level park, and Beaujolais hopes to establish more detailed classification in the future.

Due to the division of the administrative area and the distance, the three southern producing areas such as Beaujolais, Magonnet, and Chalonnet have established their own wine sales system. In 1874, Antoine Budker established a hierarchical list of these three producing areas, and published it in a book co-authored by Danguy and Vermorel in 1893. The main vineyards of the well-known wine villages in the three regions are all listed in five levels, such as Poncie in Fleur, Clos des Thorins and Rocheg in MoulinVent, and Clos Salomon in Champ-Martin-Gifry, Mekré, etc. Are ranked first.

The classification development of Chablis is somewhat different from that of Jinqiu District. After the rhizobium aphid disease, the vineyards of Chablis only have hundreds of hectares and have not been replanted. Therefore, when grading, many lands not yet planted with grapes were involved. More controversy.

When the Chablis legal area was established in 1938, a special committee was established to define the area. The rock formations and soil of the Kimmeridgian period must be the vineyards that produce Chablis. In the same year, the grading of the super park was also established, with a total of seven ranks, which together became a legal production area, not independent of each other. However, Chablis' first-class garden was developed relatively recently. Only in 1967, the first-class garden was separated from the village level. The original twenty-four vineyards were ranked, but now it has increased to seven Nineteen.

The classification of Burgundy vineyards was initially based on the historical factors and popularity of the vineyards. It was not entirely based on the natural conditions and potential of the vineyards, and there were few accurate geological studies as a reference when grading. Now, after years of revisions and corrections, it looks like it can be called exhaustive and complete as a whole, but like all classifications, it is definitely not an absolute standard for the quality of Burgundy wines, and first-class or village-level wines are better than special-class Is not uncommon.

Burgundy refers to an independent vineyard as climat. Although there are differences in grades, it is more important to have its own personality. If you prefer personal style, there are many unique village wines. The level garden is more charming. What's more, wines from the same climat often have different styles due to many factors such as year, tree age, planting and brewing methods.


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