如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:中篇

如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:中篇

自19世纪开始,就有多份勃艮第,特别是金丘区的葡萄园分级名单与地图,最为知名的是1855年 Jules由 Lavalle在 Histoire et Satistique de la Vigne des Grands Vins de la Coted'Or一书中为金丘区所做的非正式分级。

如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:中篇


当时分四级,最高的等级称为HorsLigne或TetedeCuvee,之后是一级、二级(Deuxieme Cuvee)和三级(Troiseme Cuvee,有些村子如莫瑞-圣丹尼村还出现了四级。

如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:中篇

在1961年之后,为博恩治区所采用、具有官方色彩的分级简化为三级,将原本 Hors Ligne、 Tete de Cuvee和一级全部合并成一级。这份名单也曾经在1862年的巴黎万国博览会上展示过,这个分级版本因为是由博恩治区制作的,当年香波-蜜思妮村以北、隶属第戎治区的村庄则没有列级。

如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:中篇


Jules Lavalle的分级是针对山坡上种植黑皮诺的优质葡萄园所做的,至于山顶与平原区的葡萄园则只被列为平凡区域( Region des Ordinaires)。这些在金丘山坡外的葡萄园面积其实更广阔,当年主要种植佳美葡萄,酿成供应当地市场的家常酒。

如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:中篇

当时金丘区有26,500公顷的葡萄园,但种植于山坡上的黑皮诺却只有3,600公顷。Lavalle强调,金丘的好酒非常有限,适合种植的葡萄园也只限于少数条件类似,却几乎彼此相连的狭小区域。Jules lavalle的分级建立于历史、知名度与实际的观察经验,甚至也可能跟当时葡萄园的拥有者有关。

如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:中篇

1936年,法定产区制度成立之后,葡萄园的分级由国家法定产区管理局(INAO)负责,并逐步完善成今日的分级。如今的分级大体上跟 Lavalle的这份名单吻合。与1961年的版本相比,一级的葡萄园都被列为特级园或一级园,二级中少数较好的葡萄园也成为一级园,而大部分二级与三级则成为村庄级,未列级的平凡区域则是勃艮第地方性法定产区。

如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:中篇


不过,分级的过程也有不少折冲或利益的考虑,有些特级园将邻近的葡萄园一起合并,如原本仅有3公顷的埃雪索,列级时将周边的十多片葡萄园合并为超过30公顷的特级园。又如夜圣乔治市的 Les St. Georges、尔内村的 Les Caillerets及默尔索村的 Les Perrieres等虽然都可能列级特级园,但因为考虑到特级园只能单独标示葡萄园,不标示村名,这些产酒名村的葡萄农最后选择可以标示村名的法定产区,而失去了列级特级园的机会。

如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:中篇

当时博恩市的酒商以销售厂牌酒为主,而博恩市的葡萄园又多为酒商所有,酒商对于列级并不热衷,因此没有积极争取将博恩市的优秀名园列级为特级园,如被 Lavalle选为 Tete de Cuvee的es Greves和 Les Feveso。

如何读懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分级:中篇

How to Read the "Identity" of Burgundy Wines-Grading of Burgundy Wines: Part II

Since the 19th century, there have been many vineyard classification lists and maps in Burgundy, especially Jinqiu District. The most famous is the 1855 Jules by Lavalle in Histoire et Satistique de la Vigne des Grands Vins de la Coted'Or. An informal grading for Jinqiu in a book.

At that time, there were four levels. The highest level was called HorsLigne or TetedeCuvee, followed by first, second (Deuxieme Cuvee), and third (Troiseme Cuvee). Some villages such as Murray-Saint-Denis also appeared fourth.

After 1961, the official grading adopted by the Beaune region was simplified to three levels, and the original Hors Ligne, Tete de Cuvee and one level were all merged into one level. This list was also displayed at the Paris International Exposition in 1862. This graded version was produced by the Beaune region, and the villages north of Chambord-Missini village that belonged to Dijon region were not ranked .

The classification of Jules Lavalle is for high-quality vineyards planted in Pinot Noir on the slopes, and the vineyards on the hilltops and plains are classified only as Region Ordinaires. These vineyards outside the hillside of Jinqiu are actually much wider. In that year, Jiamei grapes were mainly grown to make home-made wines for the local market.

At that time there were 26,500 hectares of vineyards in Jinqiu, but Pinot Noir planted on the hillside was only 3,600 hectares. Lavalle emphasized that the fine wines in Jinqiu are very limited, and the vineyards suitable for planting are limited to a few small areas with similar conditions but almost connected to each other. The classification of Jules lavalle is based on history, popularity and practical observations, and may even be related to the owner of the vineyard at the time.

In 1936, after the establishment of the legal area system, the classification of vineyards was under the responsibility of the National Bureau of Legal Areas (INAO), and gradually improved to today's classification. Today's ratings roughly match Lavalle's list. Compared with the 1961 version, the first-level vineyards are classified as special or first-class gardens. A few of the better vineyards in the second-level also become first-level gardens, while most of the second- and third-level vineyards become villages. Ordinary areas that are not listed are Burgundy's local legal production areas.

However, the process of classification also has many considerations for discounts or benefits. Some special-grade gardens merge adjacent vineyards together. For example, the original 3 hectares of Axue will combine more than ten vineyards around the vineyards to exceed 30 hectares of super park. Another example is Les St. Georges in the night of St. Georges, Les Caillerets in the village of Erne, and Les Perrieres in the village of Meursault. Although they may be listed as super-class parks, because the super-parks can only be labeled with vineyards, they are not labeled The grape growers in these wine-producing villages finally chose the legal production area that can indicate the name of the village, and lost the opportunity of a super-class garden.

At that time, the wine merchants in Born were mainly selling branded wines, and the vineyards in Born were mostly owned by wine merchants. The ranks are super parks, such as es Greves and Les Feveso, which were selected by Lavalle as Tete de Cuvee.


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