咖啡文化在中國走紅的速度太快了。
這年頭，無論是寫字樓的Jenny還是校園裡的詹同學，日常不喝咖啡都顯得out了。
曾幾何時，喝咖啡在中國是非常罕見的。
80年代，在人們眼中，咖啡是“時髦”和“高雅”的象徵。那時，上海開設了200多家供應咖啡的音樂茶座，個體戶開設的咖啡館也不斷增加。
當時，個體戶們大多會買來4.8元一斤的咖啡，煮60杯，每杯賣0.4元。通常情況下，從早上8點到晚上11點，可售出清咖啡200多杯。（鳳凰衛視）
30多年過去了，咖啡在中國人心中似乎還是保留著”高貴冷豔“的形象，覺得喝咖啡是很洋氣的生活方式。
而星巴克，就是憑藉著中國人對喝咖啡這種生活方式的嚮往，迅速在中國擴張。在國外非常草根的品牌，在中國搖身一變，成為裝X的品牌。
星巴克咖啡在中國擴張的速度，以及中國消費者買帳的程度，讓一位老外看不下去了。
她覺得星巴克的咖啡在中國賣得又貴又不健康，中國人為啥放著好好的綠茶不喝，偏偏選擇國外的咖啡品牌呢？
以下是Global Times (Metro Shanghai)關於中國人喝咖啡的相關評論，配有中文翻譯喔。
Shanghai thirsts for more Chinese, less foreign, coffee
American coffeehouse chain that has multiplied like wild fungus in the Chinese mainland over the past two decades. According to USA Today, a new Starbucks branch opens somewhere in China every 15 hours, which is even faster than KFC and Pizza Hut.
過去二十年間，美國的咖啡連鎖品牌星巴克在中國大陸如雨後春筍般湧現。根據《今日美國》的報道，星巴克在中國平均每隔15分鐘就開一家分店，在中國開分店的速度比肯德基和必勝客還要快！
I used to be quite pleased about Starbucks' omnipresence here, as Chinese cafes such as U.B.C. Coffee just didn't do it for me. But the more Starbucks expanded, the more I spent; and believe it or not, Starbucks is actually more expensive in China than in Western countries, according to CCTV, due to its strategic positioning as a "luxury" beverage targeting upper-class Chinese consumers (ironically, in the US, Starbucks is considered the McDonald's of coffee).
我以前對星巴克在中國的擴張是喜聞樂見的，因為中國本土的一些咖啡品牌，比如上島咖啡，不符合我的口味。但隨著星巴克的門店在中國越開越多，我消費得越多，愈發感覺在中國買星巴克比在西方國家要貴。根據CCTV的報道，星巴克在中國的市場定位是針對中產和富裕階層的消費者。諷刺的是，在美國，星巴克的市場定位如同麥當勞，是快餐一樣的飲品。
There are now so many Starbucks in Shanghai - 600 locations according to their website, making it the city with the largest number of the chain's cafes globally - that in some parts of the city there are two competing (a recent QZ article refers to this as "cannibalizing") branches just a hop, skip and jump away from each other. On Nanjing Road West, for instance, the newly opened 2,700-square-meter Starbucks Reserve Roastery is directly across the street from a normal-sized Starbucks.
目前，星巴克在上海的門店非常之多。根據官網的數據顯示，大約有600家門店。上海已經成為全球星巴克連鎖店最多的城市。在上海某些街區，每走幾步，就能發現另一家星巴克門店。比如在南京西路上，新開張的2700平米的星巴克甄選烘培工坊，正對面就是一家正常面積的星巴克門店。
To be honest, I always found Starbucks' whole "shove our product down their gullets" marketing approach in China to be quite, um, distasteful. For thousands of years, China was strictly a tea-drinking culture, which benefited them health-wise (green tea is considered the healthiest beverage in the world after water itself) and in terms of longevity (green tea has many anti-aging properties). If you've ever seen a 90-year-old Chinese villager plowing a field like he was still 19, you can bet he has been drinking green tea his whole life.
說實話，我一直覺得星巴克在中國的市場宣傳戰略不咋地。幾千年來，中國都是一個嚴格意義上的茶文化的國家。喝茶對中國人的身體也很有好處。比如綠茶就被認為是世界上第二健康的飲品，僅次於水。多喝綠茶也被認為能延年益壽，因為綠茶含有多種抗衰老的成分。如果你在中國看到90多歲的村民還跟19歲一樣矯健地耕地，ta很可能一直有喝茶的習慣。
Coffee, meanwhile, is a scientifically proven highly addictive stimulant. Combined with all the artificial sweeteners and fatty creams that Starbucks mixes in to make it palatable, it adds up to a rather unhealthy drink. I myself am proof positive that coffee is addictive - and fattening. So I actually feel sorry for all the millions of Chinese people who have allowed this foreign mega-corporation to pull them off healthy, affordable green tea and hooked on their expensive, extrinsic product.
而咖啡，已經被科學證實含有讓人容易上癮的興奮物。星巴克的咖啡通常混合了各種人工的甜味劑和令人發胖的奶油，為了讓咖啡更美味一些。這些添加劑非常不健康。根據我自己的親身經歷，（星巴克的）咖啡是讓人上癮的，而且令人發胖。所以當我看到數百萬的中國人放棄健康便宜的綠茶飲料，選擇了星巴克這個昂貴的外國咖啡飲品，我是非常替中國人難過的。
I get it: young, stylish middle-class Chinese like to be seen buying a 40-yuan ($5.86) mochachocolatayaya-ccino. In their eyes, Starbucks is a fashionable "lifestyle" brand that makes them look chic and trendy on their Weibo and WeChat posts. For Chinese who grew up on tea, suddenly switching to coffee was more about appearance than taste, and that's exactly what Starbucks was banking on.
我理解年輕、趕潮流的中國中產階級想被人看到買一杯40元的星巴克。在這些消費者眼裡，喝星巴克是一種時髦的生活方式，讓他們在微博和微信朋友圈裡看起來更光鮮。從小習慣喝茶的中國人，突然開始喝咖啡，我想主要還是因為面子，而不是因為味道。而這就是星巴克想要達到的效果。
But after 19 years of near-monopolization in the Chinese mainland (58 percent of China's coffee market in 2016, according to research firm Euromonitor International), it was high time for a worthy domestic contender to give Starbucks a run for their money. Enter Luckin Coffee, a Beijing-based rival that launched last October and has expanded rapidly into Shanghai and elsewhere with aggressive media marketing and steep customer discounts. Integral to Luckin's model is express delivery: half of its 800 outlets are mere kitchens solely for fulfilling online orders.
在星巴克壟斷中國近19年後（研究機構稱2016年星巴克佔據了58%的中國咖啡市場），中國本土咖啡品牌跟星巴克競爭的好時機到了。2017年10月創立於北京的瑞幸咖啡得益於激進的媒體宣傳和吸引人的折扣力度，迅速在上海和其他城市擴張。瑞幸咖啡零售模式的核心是配送服務。瑞幸咖啡目前在中國有800家左右的門店，但幾乎一半是服務於線上的客戶。
Starbucks, which considers its aggravatingly long lines as a sort of status symbol, never saw this coming. In fact, app-based F&B businesses and online meal ordering are now all the rage in Shanghai and Beijing, which gives Luckin a leg up. So much so that, following Luckin's explosive success (over 18 million cups of coffee sold in nine months, according to thebeijinger.com), Starbucks China scrambled to partner with Alibaba Group's Ele.me unit to also do coffee deliveries, according to a recent South China Morning Post article.
星巴克對於門店冗長的隊伍，絲毫沒有改變的意思。這個傲慢的品牌想不到，中國本土的新零售咖啡正在快速崛起。事實上，通過手機app在網上訂餐的服務在中國上海北京非常流行。這種新的訂餐模式給中國本土咖啡品牌，比如瑞幸咖啡，帶來了極大的機遇。據媒體報道，瑞幸咖啡在短短九個月就賣出了1800萬杯的咖啡。而星巴克中國趕緊與阿里巴巴旗下的餓了麼進行合作，在餓了麼的平臺開啟咖啡配送服務。
Starbucks has opened more than 3,000 stores in China and plans for 5,000 within the next four years, according to the New York Times, but Luckin's on-demand delivery model could be a game-changer for China's 100 billion yuan per-year coffee market. It may even cause some Starbucks branches to shut down, which I would not shed any tears over. After all, competition drives innovation, and with Shanghai positioning itself as China's new innovation capital, the best thing for this city and its millions of new coffee addicts would be less foreign monopolies and more homegrown start-ups.
根據《紐約時報》的一篇報道，星巴克目前在中國已經開了3000多家門店了，且計劃在接下來的4年繼續開5000家門店。而中國本土咖啡的新零售模式的崛起，很可能會改變中國每年1000億元的咖啡市場。中國本土的咖啡零售品牌，可能會幹掉星巴克的一些門店。對此，我一點也不同情星巴克。畢竟只有競爭才能帶來創新。上海被定位為中國的創新中心。對於這個城市以及上海數百萬喜歡喝咖啡的人來說，本土咖啡品牌的崛起，減少對國外咖啡的依賴，再好不過了。
The opinions expressed in this article are the author's own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Global Times.
原文: Annabel Eaton
翻譯：Wang Han
圖：Lu Ting、網絡
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