咖啡文化在中国走红的速度太快了。
这年头，无论是写字楼的Jenny还是校园里的詹同学，日常不喝咖啡都显得out了。
曾几何时，喝咖啡在中国是非常罕见的。
80年代，在人们眼中，咖啡是“时髦”和“高雅”的象征。那时，上海开设了200多家供应咖啡的音乐茶座，个体户开设的咖啡馆也不断增加。
当时，个体户们大多会买来4.8元一斤的咖啡，煮60杯，每杯卖0.4元。通常情况下，从早上8点到晚上11点，可售出清咖啡200多杯。（凤凰卫视）
30多年过去了，咖啡在中国人心中似乎还是保留着”高贵冷艳“的形象，觉得喝咖啡是很洋气的生活方式。
而星巴克，就是凭借着中国人对喝咖啡这种生活方式的向往，迅速在中国扩张。在国外非常草根的品牌，在中国摇身一变，成为装X的品牌。
星巴克咖啡在中国扩张的速度，以及中国消费者买帐的程度，让一位老外看不下去了。
她觉得星巴克的咖啡在中国卖得又贵又不健康，中国人为啥放着好好的绿茶不喝，偏偏选择国外的咖啡品牌呢？
以下是Global Times (Metro Shanghai)关于中国人喝咖啡的相关评论，配有中文翻译喔。
Shanghai thirsts for more Chinese, less foreign, coffee
American coffeehouse chain that has multiplied like wild fungus in the Chinese mainland over the past two decades. According to USA Today, a new Starbucks branch opens somewhere in China every 15 hours, which is even faster than KFC and Pizza Hut.
过去二十年间，美国的咖啡连锁品牌星巴克在中国大陆如雨后春笋般涌现。根据《今日美国》的报道，星巴克在中国平均每隔15分钟就开一家分店，在中国开分店的速度比肯德基和必胜客还要快！
I used to be quite pleased about Starbucks' omnipresence here, as Chinese cafes such as U.B.C. Coffee just didn't do it for me. But the more Starbucks expanded, the more I spent; and believe it or not, Starbucks is actually more expensive in China than in Western countries, according to CCTV, due to its strategic positioning as a "luxury" beverage targeting upper-class Chinese consumers (ironically, in the US, Starbucks is considered the McDonald's of coffee).
我以前对星巴克在中国的扩张是喜闻乐见的，因为中国本土的一些咖啡品牌，比如上岛咖啡，不符合我的口味。但随着星巴克的门店在中国越开越多，我消费得越多，愈发感觉在中国买星巴克比在西方国家要贵。根据CCTV的报道，星巴克在中国的市场定位是针对中产和富裕阶层的消费者。讽刺的是，在美国，星巴克的市场定位如同麦当劳，是快餐一样的饮品。
There are now so many Starbucks in Shanghai - 600 locations according to their website, making it the city with the largest number of the chain's cafes globally - that in some parts of the city there are two competing (a recent QZ article refers to this as "cannibalizing") branches just a hop, skip and jump away from each other. On Nanjing Road West, for instance, the newly opened 2,700-square-meter Starbucks Reserve Roastery is directly across the street from a normal-sized Starbucks.
目前，星巴克在上海的门店非常之多。根据官网的数据显示，大约有600家门店。上海已经成为全球星巴克连锁店最多的城市。在上海某些街区，每走几步，就能发现另一家星巴克门店。比如在南京西路上，新开张的2700平米的星巴克甄选烘培工坊，正对面就是一家正常面积的星巴克门店。
To be honest, I always found Starbucks' whole "shove our product down their gullets" marketing approach in China to be quite, um, distasteful. For thousands of years, China was strictly a tea-drinking culture, which benefited them health-wise (green tea is considered the healthiest beverage in the world after water itself) and in terms of longevity (green tea has many anti-aging properties). If you've ever seen a 90-year-old Chinese villager plowing a field like he was still 19, you can bet he has been drinking green tea his whole life.
说实话，我一直觉得星巴克在中国的市场宣传战略不咋地。几千年来，中国都是一个严格意义上的茶文化的国家。喝茶对中国人的身体也很有好处。比如绿茶就被认为是世界上第二健康的饮品，仅次于水。多喝绿茶也被认为能延年益寿，因为绿茶含有多种抗衰老的成分。如果你在中国看到90多岁的村民还跟19岁一样矫健地耕地，ta很可能一直有喝茶的习惯。
Coffee, meanwhile, is a scientifically proven highly addictive stimulant. Combined with all the artificial sweeteners and fatty creams that Starbucks mixes in to make it palatable, it adds up to a rather unhealthy drink. I myself am proof positive that coffee is addictive - and fattening. So I actually feel sorry for all the millions of Chinese people who have allowed this foreign mega-corporation to pull them off healthy, affordable green tea and hooked on their expensive, extrinsic product.
而咖啡，已经被科学证实含有让人容易上瘾的兴奋物。星巴克的咖啡通常混合了各种人工的甜味剂和令人发胖的奶油，为了让咖啡更美味一些。这些添加剂非常不健康。根据我自己的亲身经历，（星巴克的）咖啡是让人上瘾的，而且令人发胖。所以当我看到数百万的中国人放弃健康便宜的绿茶饮料，选择了星巴克这个昂贵的外国咖啡饮品，我是非常替中国人难过的。
I get it: young, stylish middle-class Chinese like to be seen buying a 40-yuan ($5.86) mochachocolatayaya-ccino. In their eyes, Starbucks is a fashionable "lifestyle" brand that makes them look chic and trendy on their Weibo and WeChat posts. For Chinese who grew up on tea, suddenly switching to coffee was more about appearance than taste, and that's exactly what Starbucks was banking on.
我理解年轻、赶潮流的中国中产阶级想被人看到买一杯40元的星巴克。在这些消费者眼里，喝星巴克是一种时髦的生活方式，让他们在微博和微信朋友圈里看起来更光鲜。从小习惯喝茶的中国人，突然开始喝咖啡，我想主要还是因为面子，而不是因为味道。而这就是星巴克想要达到的效果。
But after 19 years of near-monopolization in the Chinese mainland (58 percent of China's coffee market in 2016, according to research firm Euromonitor International), it was high time for a worthy domestic contender to give Starbucks a run for their money. Enter Luckin Coffee, a Beijing-based rival that launched last October and has expanded rapidly into Shanghai and elsewhere with aggressive media marketing and steep customer discounts. Integral to Luckin's model is express delivery: half of its 800 outlets are mere kitchens solely for fulfilling online orders.
在星巴克垄断中国近19年后（研究机构称2016年星巴克占据了58%的中国咖啡市场），中国本土咖啡品牌跟星巴克竞争的好时机到了。2017年10月创立于北京的瑞幸咖啡得益于激进的媒体宣传和吸引人的折扣力度，迅速在上海和其他城市扩张。瑞幸咖啡零售模式的核心是配送服务。瑞幸咖啡目前在中国有800家左右的门店，但几乎一半是服务于线上的客户。
Starbucks, which considers its aggravatingly long lines as a sort of status symbol, never saw this coming. In fact, app-based F&B businesses and online meal ordering are now all the rage in Shanghai and Beijing, which gives Luckin a leg up. So much so that, following Luckin's explosive success (over 18 million cups of coffee sold in nine months, according to thebeijinger.com), Starbucks China scrambled to partner with Alibaba Group's Ele.me unit to also do coffee deliveries, according to a recent South China Morning Post article.
星巴克对于门店冗长的队伍，丝毫没有改变的意思。这个傲慢的品牌想不到，中国本土的新零售咖啡正在快速崛起。事实上，通过手机app在网上订餐的服务在中国上海北京非常流行。这种新的订餐模式给中国本土咖啡品牌，比如瑞幸咖啡，带来了极大的机遇。据媒体报道，瑞幸咖啡在短短九个月就卖出了1800万杯的咖啡。而星巴克中国赶紧与阿里巴巴旗下的饿了么进行合作，在饿了么的平台开启咖啡配送服务。
Starbucks has opened more than 3,000 stores in China and plans for 5,000 within the next four years, according to the New York Times, but Luckin's on-demand delivery model could be a game-changer for China's 100 billion yuan per-year coffee market. It may even cause some Starbucks branches to shut down, which I would not shed any tears over. After all, competition drives innovation, and with Shanghai positioning itself as China's new innovation capital, the best thing for this city and its millions of new coffee addicts would be less foreign monopolies and more homegrown start-ups.
根据《纽约时报》的一篇报道，星巴克目前在中国已经开了3000多家门店了，且计划在接下来的4年继续开5000家门店。而中国本土咖啡的新零售模式的崛起，很可能会改变中国每年1000亿元的咖啡市场。中国本土的咖啡零售品牌，可能会干掉星巴克的一些门店。对此，我一点也不同情星巴克。毕竟只有竞争才能带来创新。上海被定位为中国的创新中心。对于这个城市以及上海数百万喜欢喝咖啡的人来说，本土咖啡品牌的崛起，减少对国外咖啡的依赖，再好不过了。
The opinions expressed in this article are the author's own and do not necessarily reflect the views of the Global Times.
原文: Annabel Eaton
翻译：Wang Han
图：Lu Ting、网络
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