在豪特霍罗格里王国“骨架”这个词可能是最容易误导人的。然而，鉴赏家们知道，这是一种历史悠久的手工技艺，需要的专业技能只有少数艺术家能够利用。正是因为这样，很小的运动部件和金银丝细丝被锯成细细的，被打磨成最基础的部分。因此，它们以一种微型的形式展示了令人惊叹的手工工艺和美学艺术，同时，它们还向佩戴者提供了深入内部工作原理的迷人洞察力，其中有几十个微小部件以和谐的精度相互作用，以显示时间。以下是2018年巴塞尔世界博览会(Baselworld)上一些最引人入胜的初次亮相者的合集，细细观察内部发生的微观机械奇观才知道这些都是行业最前沿的，每一个都有一个强大的吸引力，源自于机械“骨架”细致的加工和纯粹的设计。
Chopard
The Swiss manufacture’s minute repeater L.U.C Full Strike, introduced this year in a Fairmined white gold case, is not only music to the ears but also a feast for the eyes. Its hand-wound movement, Calibre L.U.C 08.01-L, comprises no less than 533 components, but measures a mere 7.97 mm in height. Thanks to its partly open-worked dial, this watch offers insights into its inner workings, most importantly including an unobstructed view of the patented sapphire gongs at 10 o’clock and the intricate finishing in accordance with the strict requirements of the Geneva Seal.
Bulgari
Showcasing the exquisitely finished automatic BVL 191 skeleton movement, the new Lvcea Skeleton offers a virtuosic display of haute horlogerie. However, this debutante is not just a mechanical masterpiece that allows us to admire its beating heart: it is also the first skeleton watch that takes the letters of the watchmaker’s logo and makes them integral to its design. Three new models in stainless steel and rose gold are offered. All share the signature cabochon-cut gemstone set into the crown. The gem has the same hue as the new red lacquered hands.
Chanel
The French maison marked this year’s Baselworld with a new manufacture movement inside the Boy.Friend Skeleton. Manually wound Calibre 3, comprising 114 components, is completely visible inside the signature octagonal case, which is crafted from Chanel’s own Beige Gold. In keeping with the brand’s signature aesthetics, the geometry of the finely skeletonised movement was designed to be beautiful from every angle and features a series of interlinked, vertically aligned circles that seem to float.
TAG Heuer
On the occasion of its 55th birthday, the legendary chronograph Carrera Heuer-02 gears up with a new automatic manufacture movement. The skeleton dial reveals the stunning beauty of Calibre Heuer 02, including a column wheel and a vertical clutch. It oscillates at a frequency of 4 Hz and amasses an 80-hour power reserve. The case relies on a modular construction in which all elements can be switched to create new editions.
Zenith
The traditional Swiss brand enlarged its innovative Defy line this year by adding an emphatically classical three-handed watch with a date display. Embodying an affordable entry to the collection, the Defy Classic has a 41 mm titanium case surrounding a dial with star-shaped skeletonising. The lightweight case contains automatic manufacture Calibre Elite 670, which was newly reinterpreted for the Defy. The skeletonising reveals the silicon pallet lever and the silicon escape wheel. The blackened and skeletonised date disc is perfectly legible in front of a white background at 6 o’clock.
Corum
The Swiss brand’s legendary skeletonised watch debuted in a limited version with an unprecedented metalized substrate made of sapphire crystal, onto which an excerpt from the original score of Beethoven’s Seventh Symphony is printed – named Golden Bridge Rectangle Joachim Horsley. Corum collaborated with the specialist Reuge to create a unique casket containing a musical mechanism that plays Joachim Horsley’s interpretations of three melodies by Bach, Mahler and Beethoven.
Raymond Weil
The RW1212 movement, which was developed in collaboration with Ronda and first unveiled in 2017, appeared this year in a skeletonised version. The open-worked dial of the freelancer RW1212 Skeleton reveals fascinating details of the calibre, e.g. elaborate circular graining and the balance at 6 o’clock. The automatic movement is paced at a frequency of 28,800 semi-oscillations per hour and has a 38-hour power reserve.
Edox
Boutique Swiss watchmaker Edox introduced a striking addition to its Les Bémonts collection. The Shade of Time features a finely skeletonised automatic movement comprising of 156 components. The drum and barrel-cover have been opened up, showing the fascinating rhythm of the mainspring and other components.
Arnold & Son
Having established a tradition of creating intriguing skeleton timepieces, the Swiss-British manufacture added a notably feminine touch to this genre. Nebula Lady, crafted in rose gold and equipped with a diamond-set bezel framing a slim palladium chapter ring, it is all about striving for perfect symmetry with harmoniously arranged, triangular, skeletonised, chamfered and brushed rose gold bridges. Set against a silvery palladium-tone skeletonised base plate, they create a subtly contrasting interplay of cool silvery tones and warmer gold accents.
Chronoswiss
With its barely existent dial and a skeletonised movement, the stunning new Flying Grand Regulator Skeleton is freed from all superfluous material in an innovative manner. The result is a multidimensional regulator-style timepiece with an elaborately constructed dial offering deep insights. The skeletonisation exudes a particularly contemporary aura due to the masculine size of 44 mm and the dynamic colouring of the limited model.
Maurice Lacroix
This Swiss brand has made high-quality skeletonised watches for 25 years. Automatic manufacture Calibre ML234 celebrated its premiere in the new Aikon Automatic Skeleton at Baselworld 2018. Black DLC coating on the highly skeletonised movement creates an appealing colour contrast that’s a veritable feast for the eyes.
Aerowatch
Aerowatch’s skeletonised models had been primarily reserved for male connoisseurs in the past, but this year the label presents a creation that’s destined to delight aficionadas. The Renaissance Squelette Dame is fully on a par with its masculine counterpart. This 43 mm watch for women candidly reveals its artistically decorated hand-wound movement, which is based on an Unitas calibre.
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