如何讀懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分級:中篇

如何讀懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分級:中篇

自19世紀開始,就有多份勃艮第,特別是金丘區的葡萄園分級名單與地圖,最為知名的是1855年 Jules由 Lavalle在 Histoire et Satistique de la Vigne des Grands Vins de la Coted'Or一書中為金丘區所做的非正式分級。

如何讀懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分級:中篇


當時分四級,最高的等級稱為HorsLigne或TetedeCuvee,之後是一級、二級(Deuxieme Cuvee)和三級(Troiseme Cuvee,有些村子如莫瑞-聖丹尼村還出現了四級。

如何讀懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分級:中篇

在1961年之後,為博恩治區所採用、具有官方色彩的分級簡化為三級,將原本 Hors Ligne、 Tete de Cuvee和一級全部合併成一級。這份名單也曾經在1862年的巴黎萬國博覽會上展示過,這個分級版本因為是由博恩治區製作的,當年香波-蜜思妮村以北、隸屬第戎治區的村莊則沒有列級。

如何讀懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分級:中篇


Jules Lavalle的分級是針對山坡上種植黑皮諾的優質葡萄園所做的,至於山頂與平原區的葡萄園則只被列為平凡區域( Region des Ordinaires)。這些在金丘山坡外的葡萄園面積其實更廣闊,當年主要種植佳美葡萄,釀成供應當地市場的家常酒。

如何讀懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分級:中篇

當時金丘區有26,500公頃的葡萄園,但種植于山坡上的黑皮諾卻只有3,600公頃。Lavalle強調,金丘的好酒非常有限,適合種植的葡萄園也只限於少數條件類似,卻幾乎彼此相連的狹小區域。Jules lavalle的分級建立於歷史、知名度與實際的觀察經驗,甚至也可能跟當時葡萄園的擁有者有關。

如何讀懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分級:中篇

1936年,法定產區制度成立之後,葡萄園的分級由國家法定產區管理局(INAO)負責,並逐步完善成今日的分級。如今的分級大體上跟 Lavalle的這份名單吻合。與1961年的版本相比,一級的葡萄園都被列為特級園或一級園,二級中少數較好的葡萄園也成為一級園,而大部分二級與三級則成為村莊級,未列級的平凡區域則是勃艮第地方性法定產區。

如何讀懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分級:中篇


不過,分級的過程也有不少折衝或利益的考慮,有些特級園將鄰近的葡萄園一起合併,如原本僅有3公頃的埃雪索,列級時將周邊的十多片葡萄園合併為超過30公頃的特級園。又如夜聖喬治市的 Les St. Georges、爾內村的 Les Caillerets及默爾索村的 Les Perrieres等雖然都可能列級特級園,但因為考慮到特級園只能單獨標示葡萄園,不標示村名,這些產酒名村的葡萄農最後選擇可以標示村名的法定產區,而失去了列級特級園的機會。

如何讀懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分級:中篇

當時博恩市的酒商以銷售廠牌酒為主,而博恩市的葡萄園又多為酒商所有,酒商對於列級並不熱衷,因此沒有積極爭取將博恩市的優秀名園列級為特級園,如被 Lavalle選為 Tete de Cuvee的es Greves和 Les Feveso。

如何讀懂勃艮第葡萄酒的“身份”—勃艮第葡萄酒的分級:中篇

How to Read the "Identity" of Burgundy Wines-Grading of Burgundy Wines: Part II

Since the 19th century, there have been many vineyard classification lists and maps in Burgundy, especially Jinqiu District. The most famous is the 1855 Jules by Lavalle in Histoire et Satistique de la Vigne des Grands Vins de la Coted'Or. An informal grading for Jinqiu in a book.

At that time, there were four levels. The highest level was called HorsLigne or TetedeCuvee, followed by first, second (Deuxieme Cuvee), and third (Troiseme Cuvee). Some villages such as Murray-Saint-Denis also appeared fourth.

After 1961, the official grading adopted by the Beaune region was simplified to three levels, and the original Hors Ligne, Tete de Cuvee and one level were all merged into one level. This list was also displayed at the Paris International Exposition in 1862. This graded version was produced by the Beaune region, and the villages north of Chambord-Missini village that belonged to Dijon region were not ranked .

The classification of Jules Lavalle is for high-quality vineyards planted in Pinot Noir on the slopes, and the vineyards on the hilltops and plains are classified only as Region Ordinaires. These vineyards outside the hillside of Jinqiu are actually much wider. In that year, Jiamei grapes were mainly grown to make home-made wines for the local market.

At that time there were 26,500 hectares of vineyards in Jinqiu, but Pinot Noir planted on the hillside was only 3,600 hectares. Lavalle emphasized that the fine wines in Jinqiu are very limited, and the vineyards suitable for planting are limited to a few small areas with similar conditions but almost connected to each other. The classification of Jules lavalle is based on history, popularity and practical observations, and may even be related to the owner of the vineyard at the time.

In 1936, after the establishment of the legal area system, the classification of vineyards was under the responsibility of the National Bureau of Legal Areas (INAO), and gradually improved to today's classification. Today's ratings roughly match Lavalle's list. Compared with the 1961 version, the first-level vineyards are classified as special or first-class gardens. A few of the better vineyards in the second-level also become first-level gardens, while most of the second- and third-level vineyards become villages. Ordinary areas that are not listed are Burgundy's local legal production areas.

However, the process of classification also has many considerations for discounts or benefits. Some special-grade gardens merge adjacent vineyards together. For example, the original 3 hectares of Axue will combine more than ten vineyards around the vineyards to exceed 30 hectares of super park. Another example is Les St. Georges in the night of St. Georges, Les Caillerets in the village of Erne, and Les Perrieres in the village of Meursault. Although they may be listed as super-class parks, because the super-parks can only be labeled with vineyards, they are not labeled The grape growers in these wine-producing villages finally chose the legal production area that can indicate the name of the village, and lost the opportunity of a super-class garden.

At that time, the wine merchants in Born were mainly selling branded wines, and the vineyards in Born were mostly owned by wine merchants. The ranks are super parks, such as es Greves and Les Feveso, which were selected by Lavalle as Tete de Cuvee.


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